Melbourne, Australia: Loves and hates

[Brit]

If you have lived in or spent a good deal of time in Melbourne, what do you love? What are you not such a big fan of?

[dorothyinAus]

I'm about 2 hours from Melbourne. And the biggest problem I have with Melbourne is the ridiculous Myki system for mass transit fares. It is the least user-friendly fare system I have ever seen. It's not the cards that's the problem, it's the implementation of the fare system and the lack of information, even at Myki desks in the train stations.

Are you planning to visit or move? The Myki system is a clusterf--k for both residents and tourists, but answers about what I like and don't are different for residents vs. tourists, you know?

[Brit]

@dorothyonaus - I am asking in the context of a move.

[dorothyinAus]

I can't really say as to living there, because I live in a very rural area 2 hours south.  We're up in the city about once a month for concerts, dinners, shopping, or just having a day in the city.  If I it were at all feasible, both DH and I would prefer to live in one of the inner suburbs.  We have friends in Richmond, St. Kilda, and in one of the northern suburbs I can't remember.  They all live in terraced homes or apartments.  No one I know in the city has a single family home with a yard.

I know there is lots to do and see, and the inner suburbs have a nice feel to them, they remind me of the neighborhoods in New Orleans.  The transport is very good, the fare system aside.  Even in the inner suburbs, it has a close, crowded big-city feel to me, so if you want space, you'd need to look further out.

Like I said, we're usually there only for a day or an overnight, so I'm not really the best for actually living there information.  But even after three years there is still plenty I haven't seen or done.  The biggest thing I tell anyone thinking about Melbourne (or Australia in general) is that is is expensive.  The last statistics I saw indicate that the cost of average goods is 60% more than the US.  I do know it is actually cheaper to fly to SF or LA and buy the Adobe suite software and fly home than it is to buy it in Australia.  It's expensive here.

Sorry I'm not really more help.

[GilliC]

I have never lived there, but I know that everything in Australia is trying to kill you.

[Shreddingbetty]

Jun 15, 2014 12:42:43 GMT -5 GilliC said:

I have never lived there, but I know that everything in Australia is trying to kill you.

Apparently you have to be careful going to the bathroom 

[dorothyinAus]

Jun 15, 2014 12:42:43 GMT -5 GilliC said:

I have never lived there, but I know that everything in Australia is trying to kill you.

I find in Melbourne it's mainly spiders that are trying to kill you.  Spiders are f--king EVERYWHERE!!!!  Big spiders, little spiders, medium spiders, brown spiders, black spiders, grey spiders, spiders, spiders, spiders!  It it doesn't move overnight it WILL have a spiderweb on it in the morning.  But the worst so far have been the huntsman spiders IN THE CAR!!!!! parked in the garage, with the windows rolled up.

Ohh, and the insects are unusually large too.  Moths the side of my hand, ants as long as my fingers, millepedes -- I cannot tell you how many millipedes DH as had to relocate (or how many I have squished without his knowledge).  And snails.  I fight a constant battle with the snails for ownership of my mailbox.  I'm seriously considering just lining the bottom with salt!

Magpies though, they are definitely out to kill you.  Much worse than squirrels.  Squirrels just throw things at you (okay so the things are pine cones).  Magpies throw and swoop.  Evil, evil, evil birds.  And let me tell you from experience, gum nuts chucked at you by a nesting magpie hurt!

[MauMau]

Jun 15, 2014 3:40:32 GMT -5 dorothyinAus said:

I do know it is actually cheaper to fly to SF or LA and buy the Adobe suite software and fly home than it is to buy it in Australia.  It's expensive here.

That is pretty crazy. So it's like over $1000 more!?

I've only visited Australia. A friend of mine just moved to Adelaide and she also commented on cost of living. And she came from HCOL area in the US and before that Switzerland. But they were able to purchase a house this time. Rent where she is pricey and despite not staying in Australia long term it was better to buy.

[dorothyinAus]

Jun 15, 2014 21:56:03 GMT -5 MauMau said:

Jun 15, 2014 3:40:32 GMT -5 dorothyinAus said:

I do know it is actually cheaper to fly to SF or LA and buy the Adobe suite software and fly home than it is to buy it in Australia.  It's expensive here.

That is pretty crazy. So it's like over $1000 more!?

I've only visited Australia. A friend of mine just moved to Adelaide and she also commented on cost of living. And she came from HCOL area in the US and before that Switzerland. But they were able to purchase a house this time. Rent where she is pricey and despite not staying in Australia long term it was better to buy.

I forget exactly how much more the Adobe Software is in Australia, but It's definitely enough to make it cheaper to take a (3-)day trip to San Francisco to buy it.

Something I read the other day says that the cost of living in Australia is around 60% greater than the US.  I don't doubt that one bit.  I'm surprised that buying a home was cheaper than renting.  At least in my area, renters don't pay property taxes.  The only advantage I see for buying would be the ability to switch to solar power.

[MauMau]

Jun 15, 2014 22:17:20 GMT -5 dorothyinAus said:

Jun 15, 2014 21:56:03 GMT -5 MauMau said:

That is pretty crazy. So it's like over $1000 more!?

I've only visited Australia. A friend of mine just moved to Adelaide and she also commented on cost of living. And she came from HCOL area in the US and before that Switzerland. But they were able to purchase a house this time. Rent where she is pricey and despite not staying in Australia long term it was better to buy.

I forget exactly how much more the Adobe Software is in Australia, but It's definitely enough to make it cheaper to take a (3-)day trip to San Francisco to buy it.

Something I read the other day says that the cost of living in Australia is around 60% greater than the US.  I don't doubt that one bit.  I'm surprised that buying a home was cheaper than renting.  At least in my area, renters don't pay property taxes.  The only advantage I see for buying would be the ability to switch to solar power.

Well buying in Switzerland was out of the question with there sky high property costs and 100 year mortgages. And they only stayed in the US for a year. But she definitely told me it was going to be cheaper to buy. But I know they prefer a house. So perhaps an apartment would be cheaper than buying. But house renting wasn't? Don't know.

[CakeLover]

Loves: Great food! The city has a great feel best described as eclectic.
Hates: Driving in the city has the weird turning lane. I never drove but DH has and doesn't like the turn lane thing.

I've been Melbourne once and it was over two years ago and I spent 3 days there. So I haven't lived there to know too much more about the city.

[dorothyinAus]

Jun 16, 2014 22:00:16 GMT -5 CakeLover said:

Hates: Driving in the city has the weird turning lane. I never drove but DH has and doesn't like the turn lane thing. 

For those that don't know, Google "Hook Turns."  Turning right out of the left lane.  INSANE!!!!!  I understand it's for the trams, but still INSANE!!! and one of the big reasons we don't drive very much in the CBD.  We generally park up the end of Collins Street and either walk or tram everywhere we need to go.

But because I don't drive, I forget about that particular insanity.

[MauMau]

Jun 16, 2014 22:31:12 GMT -5 dorothyinAus said:

Jun 16, 2014 22:00:16 GMT -5 CakeLover said:

Hates: Driving in the city has the weird turning lane. I never drove but DH has and doesn't like the turn lane thing. 

For those that don't know, Google "Hook Turns."  Turning right out of the left lane.  INSANE!!!!!  I understand it's for the trams, but still INSANE!!! and one of the big reasons we don't drive very much in the CBD.  We generally park up the end of Collins Street and either walk or tram everywhere we need to go.

But because I don't drive, I forget about that particular insanity.

OMG that is so weird. I watched a video explaining it with pictures and than another of it happening. Is this only a Melbourne thing? I never noticed this in Zurich with the trams. But I never drive and at the time wasn't driven much especially after my first 6 months.

Interesting. There is one in a IL suburb. Making note never to get near it.

[Brit]

Jun 16, 2014 22:31:12 GMT -5 dorothyinAus said:

Jun 16, 2014 22:00:16 GMT -5 CakeLover said:

Hates: Driving in the city has the weird turning lane. I never drove but DH has and doesn't like the turn lane thing. 

For those that don't know, Google "Hook Turns."  Turning right out of the left lane.  INSANE!!!!!  I understand it's for the trams, but still INSANE!!! and one of the big reasons we don't drive very much in the CBD.  We generally park up the end of Collins Street and either walk or tram everywhere we need to go.

But because I don't drive, I forget about that particular insanity.

Yeah, those are crazy. I have spent a decent amount of time there, but the hook turns are still so bizarre to me.

[Brit]

Thank you to everyone who chimed in. I know that it is super expensive there. I wonder how it stacks up compared to Dubai?

I had a $12 bottle of Asahi with my lunch on Saturday. I feel like it would have been about that, maybe a touch more in Melbourne. What about a McDonalds cheeseburger? About $1.50 in Dubai.

[dorothyinAus]

It's been months since I was at a McDonald's so I don't know the exact prices, but the last time I was there, value meals with fries & a drink were running between $8-$10 (and the large drink is a US medium).

Asahi beer is on sale at the brand new Dan Murphy's in my area for $4.09/bottle/$18.99/6-pack. But I think in store, it's one of the Buy 10, get 10% off, though you're spending around $40 on beer buying the 10 bottles.

I know lattes/flat whites are between $3.50-$4, and a cup of tea is about the same. Cokes at pubs/restaurants are usually in 8-ounce glasses and are around $4. Free refills are unheard of. I'm not really a drinker so I don't pay too much attention to the beer prices.

I find the biggest hit to the budget is actually at the grocery store. Produce is expensive, and rarely priced per unit. I was so used to buying limes/lemons in the US at 5/$1 or 3/$1 prices and here they're priced per kilo (limes are usually around $18.99/kilo). But I do love that I can buy single stalks of celery. I could never use a whole head of celery before it went bad in the US. And I love that I can get mushrooms individually rather than only in little tubs. I find meat expensive too, though that may be because I buy the extra lean/heart-smart beef and RSPCA-approved chicken. Eggs are expensive as well -- I paid $6 for a dozen yesterday and that's about average, though there has been an egg shortage in my area lately so prices may be a bit higher.

And while we're shopping, the variety of items in the store is much less than in the US.

[Brit]

Thanks dorothyinAus - The prices kind of freak me out. I would get a goods and services differential, but I know the one I get in Dubai isn't enough. Here I think we get about $1200/month extra, but daycare alone is $500/month more. I wouldn't say that the extra money makes us completely whole again, so I doubt it would in Melbourne either.

For now I plan to just sit tight and see how it plays out.