It is basically knock off of the Land of Nod Uptown bed (so cost us $75 vs. $600). We are using pine, and it is my understanding that it is better to paint pine vs. stain *for beginners anyway). So what do I need to know about painting pine for kids furniture?
I read somewhere that pigmented shellac is the best primer to use? True? Do you think someone else is is better? What kind of paint shoudl we use? I assume we need to apply some sort of finish? What do you recommend for that. Basically if you have knowledge of painting bare pine, help me out
Post by sierramist03 on Apr 16, 2015 9:59:14 GMT -5
I'd recommend using the cover stain by kilz primer. It will help cover any knots in the wood and help them not bleed through. Since it will be raw wood I would make sure to sand it smooth and use a sticky type rag to get the dust off. For paint I really like the SW pro classic. I painted a daybed with it and it's smooth and a nice hard surface. The only drawback is you can't do dark colors in the pro classic or at least that what's my store told me.
I'd recommend using the cover stain by kilz primer. It will help cover any knots in the wood and help them not bleed through. Since it will be raw wood I would make sure to sand it smooth and use a sticky type rag to get the dust off. For paint I really like the SW pro classic. I painted a daybed with it and it's smooth and a nice hard surface. The only drawback is you can't do dark colors in the pro classic or at least that what's my store told me.
Interseting, we have a SW near us so I can check out the pro classic. Did you put anything over the paint? Like a polyurethene or shellac or something? If not, would you if it was kids furniture? Do I need to focus on non-toxic paint?
I think I want to do the bed in a medium gray, so I am not sure if that works with pro classic.
I'd recommend using the cover stain by kilz primer. It will help cover any knots in the wood and help them not bleed through. Since it will be raw wood I would make sure to sand it smooth and use a sticky type rag to get the dust off. For paint I really like the SW pro classic. I painted a daybed with it and it's smooth and a nice hard surface. The only drawback is you can't do dark colors in the pro classic or at least that what's my store told me.
Interseting, we have a SW near us so I can check out the pro classic. Did you put anything over the paint? Like a polyurethene or shellac or something? If not, would you if it was kids furniture? Do I need to focus on non-toxic paint?
I think I want to do the bed in a medium gray, so I am not sure if that works with pro classic.
Pro classic is alkyd paint so it dries harder than most paints. If you want to add polyurethane makes sure it's water based so it won't yellow over time.
I know they make special non toxic paints for nurseries that I'm sure you could use I just don't have any experience with them.
As for colors I was told I couldn't do black since it doesn't come in a dark base.
I'd recommend using the cover stain by kilz primer. It will help cover any knots in the wood and help them not bleed through. Since it will be raw wood I would make sure to sand it smooth and use a sticky type rag to get the dust off. For paint I really like the SW pro classic. I painted a daybed with it and it's smooth and a nice hard surface. The only drawback is you can't do dark colors in the pro classic or at least that what's my store told me.
Interseting, we have a SW near us so I can check out the pro classic. Did you put anything over the paint? Like a polyurethene or shellac or something? If not, would you if it was kids furniture? Do I need to focus on non-toxic paint?
I think I want to do the bed in a medium gray, so I am not sure if that works with pro classic.
I really like cover stain primer, but have to disagree with using it for this. I have had knots from pine bleed through. Your original plan of the shellac primer should work. I think mrs.jacinthe is the one who I found out about it from. I just bought some from SW to address the pine knots on some trim in my house.
I haven't used the Pro Classic before, but have used a similar competing product from BM called Advance. It dries hard like oil paint. It's self leveling and important not to overwork the paint or it will get gummy and streaky.
With that protocol of priming and painting I definitely wouldn't top with poly.
Also child safe paint or whatever shouldn't be necessary unless you were expecting it to get chewed on a lot.
Post by OrangeBanana on Apr 17, 2015 19:53:29 GMT -5
I've done lots or projects like this.
Use a higher grade pine. There will be less knots in it and it will already be really smooth. That will reduce your sanding time and also deal with painting over knots.
If you are still are interested in staining the bed, the nicer pine will take the stain well. Just use a wood conditioner first.
Sounds like you have already gotten a lot of good advice about painting. I have finished a lot of these projects with just a coat of furniture wax after letting the latex paint dry cure and they have all held up really well.
Use a higher grade pine. There will be less knots in it and it will already be really smooth. That will reduce your sanding time and also deal with painting over knots.
If you are still are interested in staining the bed, the nicer pine will take the stain well. Just use a wood conditioner first.
Sounds like you have already gotten a lot of good advice about painting. I have finished a lot of these projects with just a coat of furniture wax after letting the latex paint dry cure and they have all held up really well.
Thanks! We just bought the pine they had available at home depot. They didn't have the same quality for all the pieces, but I think that the large pieces are the higher quality. I figure since it is not all necessarily the same, we will just paint (the staining makes me nervous) ha ha. I think for our next project I would like to find a lumbar yard that gives us a wider variety of options.
I am excited. I will have to post pictures once DH finished (hopefully by next weekend!).
Post by lavender444 on Apr 20, 2015 5:03:59 GMT -5
Just make sure you have proper prep, and you give the bed proper cure time before putting it into use. Or, you can try chalk paint. I painted a desk for my craft room with chalk paint. I sanded between coats to get a smooth finish, then sealed with a clear wax. I'm impressed with how durable it is.