Lilly Pullitzer: Good for Retail but Terrible Fashion

[LoveTrains]

Interesting article about it.


www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/style-blog/wp/2015/04/20/lilly-pulitzer-may-be-good-for-retail-but-its-terrible-fashion/


Lilly Pulitzer may be good for retail, but it’s terrible fashion



Resize Text Print Article Comments 152

By Robin Givhan April 20 at 12:18 PM


The debut of the Lilly Pulitzer collection for Target was a spectacular feat of retailing that had very little to do with the quality of the fashion that the mass marketer was selling. Lilly Pulitzer is not fashion. It is clothes. The classic Lilly Pulitzer dress comes in shrill shades of yellow and pink that are vaguely infantilizing. They are clothes that can be shrunk down and worn by 7-year-old girls without changing a single design element — if there were actual design elements to change. But there are not.



Lilly Pulitzer is preppy. It is part of a preppy uniform that announces itself from fifty paces. It is not so much a declaration of wealth as it is a perceived statement about class, lineage and attitude. Anyone can work hard and save up enough cash to go out and purchase a Chanel suit or a Gucci handbag. A devoted student of Vogue can cobble together a personal style that speaks to its public identity. But Lilly Pulitzer suggests an advantage of birth. The clothes stir up scrapbook notions of ancient family trees, summer compounds, boarding school uniforms, and large, granite buildings inscribed with some great-great-grandfather’s name. Lilly Pulitzer represents something that money cannot buy.


The clothes are, upon close inspection, not so terribly attractive. Actually, they are rather unattractive. And that is part of their charm. They are not meant to be stylish — that’s so nouveau. The clothes are clubby. Country clubby. One-percent-ish.



Target created a feeding frenzy of shoppers lured by cheap versions of A-line sheaths that are mostly distinguished by their swirling, colorful prints rather than by silhouette, fabric, craftsmanship or creativity. The massive lines, crashing Web sites and lust-filled tweets under #LillyForTarget are less proof of shoppers’ discerning taste than evidence that folks love a whiff of leisure-class exclusivity, a brand name and a bargain — however that might be defined.



Target has a long history of these limited-edition collections, which have included such rarefied fashion names as Jason Wu, Altuzarra, Rodarte and Missoni. These collections whipped customers into a near-fugue state of consumption because the merchandise was limited and buyers could get a smidge of the design house’s distinctive sensibility for a significant discount. A Rodarte dress normally costs a customer anywhere from $3,000 on up. But most everything in the Target collection was less than $100. The Missoni collection at Target included housewares bearing the Italian brand’s distinctive and colorful zigzag pattern. A high-end Missoni pillow costs about $300. Target was selling them for about a tenth of that price. Those are jaw-dropping deals. And it was good-looking merchandise, too.


But Lilly Pulitzer isn’t that kind of designer collection. The brand was founded in 1959 by the label’s namesake – a bored, rich housewife who had started an orange juice stand in Palm Beach. One day, she brought along several simple chemise dresses — which had been constructed by her dressmaker from fabric that Pulitzer had purchased at Woolworth. The dresses were a hit, and the easy, but constructed shape, helped define the style of a generation of women in the 1960s. The clothes were perky and chaste and bore an aristocratic name.



“There is, however, always a big difference between the uncomplicated Diane von Furstenberg wrap dress, the Halston Ultrasuede shirtwaist or other icons of style, and all the competition. Pulitzer invented nothing; she is hardly a designer,” wrote the late fashion historian Richard Martin in his compendium on American fashion. Pulitzer died in 2013.



Today, a simple Lilly Pulitzer dress is about $200. A Target version is about $40. That’s a bargain, for sure, but not that exceptional. One might expect to find nearly as good a deal by waiting for a sale at Neiman Marcus. Time, after all, is not of the essence. Lilly Pulitzer is classic. It is always hanging on a rack somewhere, everywhere, in all of its pineapple-print, feel-good, preppy psychedelia.


But who has time to pull out a calculator and get involved in fractions when pink dresses are flying off the racks — virtual and real — and shoppers are overwhelmed by the fear of missing out? It must be a good deal if everyone is going this bonkers, right?



Discerning eyes go blurry at the prospect of a bargain. And as much as people poo-poo the allure of designer this-and-that, shoppers continue to find validation from the name on the label inside their clothes. Sometimes that label rightfully stands for quality — a confirmation that a purse is hand-made or a dress has been stitched just so. But in the case of Lilly Pulitzer for Target, the label isn’t a promise of enduring quality, unique style or specialized fit.



The chest-thumping is about having gotten something that others missed out on, something that was ephemeral. Target distinguished itself once again as a retailing dynamo. But what it was selling this time had nothing to do with fashion.

[Deleted]

I thought Lilly Pulitzer must be some hip new designer. Nope. Seems the line has been around for ages. Never heard of it. Maybe I live too far north for pineapple shoes

[mcfelix]

I think the article is kind of hilarious. I see their point, but who cares? If people like it, so be it. I like under armour t shirts and capris but don't consider them high fashion. There is a time and place for me to wear them, they are comfortable and I like how they look. I'm sure many people feel the same about Lilly P. I don't own any, but I think it's cute summery clothing.

[pixy0stix]

Apr 20, 2015 19:16:47 GMT -5 @hannymaren said:

I thought Lilly Pulitzer must be some hip new designer. Nope. Seems the line has been around for ages. Never heard of it. Maybe I live too far north for pineapple shoes

I live in too much of a land locked state. I've heard of LP before, but I've never seen it in the wild.

[eclaires]

Look, this is what a lot of southern ladies wear. Not specifically Lilly, but brightly colored, preppy floral prints. Is it high fashion? Probably not. But it's what the sweet tea on the porch set wears pretty much year round. If they like it, who cares... there are a lot of high fashion styles that would be incredibly out of place in certain areas of this country (like many areas of the south).

And their husbands gladly wear coordinating pastel button downs or polo shirts, likely monogrammed, and meanwhile their wives monogram everything that stands still long enough.

LEAVE THE LILLY LOVING LADIES ALONE. They like loud prints. They like simple styles with loud prints. WHO CARES. Honestly, I'm glad they aren't combining insane styles with the loud prints. That would be too much.

[pixy0stix]

Can I at least make fun of monograms? Give me something to work with here.

[Deleted]

Apr 20, 2015 19:21:23 GMT -5 pixy0stix said:

Apr 20, 2015 19:16:47 GMT -5 @hannymaren said:

I thought Lilly Pulitzer must be some hip new designer. Nope. Seems the line has been around for ages. Never heard of it. Maybe I live too far north for pineapple shoes

I live in too much of a land locked state. I've heard of LP before, but I've never seen it in the wild.

Thing is, when I say this, I am not trying to make fun of LP. I am admitting that I am a loser. Lol.

[eclaires]

Apr 20, 2015 19:25:12 GMT -5 pixy0stix said:

Can I at least make fun of monograms? Give me something to work with here.

Noooooooo, I love a good monogram.

That said, I do hate car monograms, which usually are something that Lilly Lady types love.

[pixy0stix]

Apr 20, 2015 19:31:59 GMT -5 eclaires said:

Apr 20, 2015 19:25:12 GMT -5 pixy0stix said:

Can I at least make fun of monograms? Give me something to work with here.

Noooooooo, I love a good monogram.

That said, I do hate car monograms, which usually are something that Lilly Lady types love.

Why monogram your car?

Nevermind. I don't want to know.

[eclaires]

Apr 20, 2015 19:33:37 GMT -5 pixy0stix said:

Apr 20, 2015 19:31:59 GMT -5 eclaires said:

Noooooooo, I love a good monogram.

That said, I do hate car monograms, which usually are something that Lilly Lady types love.

Why monogram your car?

Nevermind. I don't want to know.

It's a mystery, but the bigger, the better on your rear window.

[laurenpetro]

Apr 20, 2015 19:24:04 GMT -5 eclaires said:

Look, this is what a lot of southern ladies wear. Not specifically Lilly, but brightly colored, preppy floral prints. Is it high fashion? Probably not. But it's what the sweet tea on the porch set wears pretty much year round. If they like it, who cares... there are a lot of high fashion styles that would be incredibly out of place in certain areas of this country (like many areas of the south).

And their husbands gladly wear coordinating pastel button downs or polo shirts, likely monogrammed, and meanwhile their wives monogram everything that stands still long enough.

LEAVE THE LILLY LOVING LADIES ALONE. They like loud prints. They like simple styles with loud prints. WHO CARES. Honestly, I'm glad they aren't combining insane styles with the loud prints. That would be too much.

You HAD to bring up sweet tea, DIDN'T YOU.

WHY DID YOU HAVE TO BRING SWEET TEA INTO THIS?

Now I have to get a fucking LP makeup bag or something.

#partoftheproblem

[eclaires]

Apr 20, 2015 19:39:15 GMT -5 laurenpetro said:

Apr 20, 2015 19:24:04 GMT -5 eclaires said:

Look, this is what a lot of southern ladies wear. Not specifically Lilly, but brightly colored, preppy floral prints. Is it high fashion? Probably not. But it's what the sweet tea on the porch set wears pretty much year round. If they like it, who cares... there are a lot of high fashion styles that would be incredibly out of place in certain areas of this country (like many areas of the south).

And their husbands gladly wear coordinating pastel button downs or polo shirts, likely monogrammed, and meanwhile their wives monogram everything that stands still long enough.

LEAVE THE LILLY LOVING LADIES ALONE. They like loud prints. They like simple styles with loud prints. WHO CARES. Honestly, I'm glad they aren't combining insane styles with the loud prints. That would be too much.

You HAD to bring up sweet tea, DIDN'T YOU.

WHY DID YOU HAVE TO BRING SWEET TEA INTO THIS?

Now I have to get a fucking LP makeup bag or something.

#partoftheproblem

Make sure you monogram it!

[laurenpetro]

Apr 20, 2015 19:34:43 GMT -5 eclaires said:

Apr 20, 2015 19:33:37 GMT -5 pixy0stix said:

Why monogram your car?

Nevermind. I don't want to know.

It's a mystery, but the bigger, the better on your rear window.

Like, your own monogram? Or one of those Hamptons Cheerleader #52 Lilly! things?

[eclaires]

Apr 20, 2015 19:40:31 GMT -5 laurenpetro said:

Apr 20, 2015 19:34:43 GMT -5 eclaires said:

It's a mystery, but the bigger, the better on your rear window.

Like, your own monogram? Or one of those Hamptons Cheerleader #52 Lilly! things?

your own monogram!  It's fascinating and weird.

[eclaires]

You know what I find amusing about LP? Whenever I go to their website, I'm like...eh there is no way any of those dresses wouldn't have be flashing my ass because they are so short and tight! But then if I see them on another website (Nordstrom, Zappos, etc.) or I go to Belk and see the middle aged salesladies wearing them, I'm like...they aren't that short!

They must have their website models in the smallest, tightest version of the dress they can get on them.

[gpw]

I live in a seriously preppy area. They love Lily here. And they love monograms. Even on the cars.

I don't understand. I mean, I like a monogram....on my towels.

[origami]

Apr 20, 2015 19:43:36 GMT -5 gpw said:

I live in a seriously preppy area. They love Lily here. And they love monograms. Even on the cars.

I don't understand. I mean, I like a monogram....on my towels.

GP is the only reason I've heard of LP.

[gpw]

Apr 20, 2015 19:44:54 GMT -5 origami said:

Apr 20, 2015 19:43:36 GMT -5 gpw said:

I live in a seriously preppy area. They love Lily here. And they love monograms. Even on the cars.

I don't understand. I mean, I like a monogram....on my towels.

GP is the only reason I've heard of LP.

You should see the copycat Lily stuff that people here make.  They're at the super preppy GP farmer's market on Saturday mornings.  Headbands, purses, diaper bags.....everything.  Monogrammed.  Everything monogrammed.

[ringstrue]

This author lost me when she started critiquing the shift dress. It's like she just discovered darting?

I will admit when I saw this stuff it looked a bit ... Well it looks like something you cold easy sew. Broadcloth print, a few seams and hems and walla! But you know- that's summer simplicity for you. Nothing wrong with it.

And I think the shift dress is cute, fwiw.

[bronxgirl]

Apr 20, 2015 19:31:40 GMT -5 @hannymaren said:

Apr 20, 2015 19:21:23 GMT -5 pixy0stix said:

I live in too much of a land locked state. I've heard of LP before, but I've never seen it in the wild.

Thing is, when I say this, I am not trying to make fun of LP. I am admitting that I am a loser. Lol.

I always thought I was a loser for really liking LP which is definitely not a fashion forward brand, but I like it anyway. FTR, although they are famous for the little girl style dresses, they also have a lot of solid color pieces and more adult appropriate cocktail dresses. even Lilly had to leave the juice stand once in awhile.

[saz]

Don't mind me, I'm just driving my monogrammed Lilly jeep through this thread....

[pixy0stix]

ANNNNNNND I'm dead.

[cattledogkisses]

Lilly and monogramming everything you can put a monogram on is more southern preppy. New England preppy is a bit of a different style. I would never wear one of those those Lilly dresses, but you can pry my boat shoes off my cold, dead feet.

We all have our idiosyncrasies I guess.  Lol. 

I do have one monogrammed LL Bean tote bag though.

[pixy0stix]

CO preppy =

[josieposy]

I don't see a lot of LP here. In fact I dunno if I've ever seen LP here. Maybe because nobody wants to draw too much attention to their winter pale skin when the sun finally comes out.

[mouse]

Apr 20, 2015 19:34:43 GMT -5 eclaires said:

Apr 20, 2015 19:33:37 GMT -5 pixy0stix said:

Why monogram your car?

Nevermind. I don't want to know.

It's a mystery, but the bigger, the better on your rear window.

What happens when you go to sell the car? Are you out there with a razor blade scraping that shit off?

[pixy0stix]

Apr 20, 2015 20:09:15 GMT -5 mouse said:

Apr 20, 2015 19:34:43 GMT -5 eclaires said:

It's a mystery, but the bigger, the better on your rear window.

What happens when you go to sell the car? Are you out there with a razor blade scraping that shit off?

I've sold cars with decals on them. The dealership deals with it.

[runaways]

She said all the things I would have thought if I had ever put forth any mental energy on the topic of LP. I just don't get it as a phenomenon at all.

[irishbride2]

I have this weird thing against paisley. I do love obnoxiously bright colors and patterns, but generally geometric pattersn/clean lines. I generally do not like florals.

I don't hate LP but its not my style.

But really, I'm over the LP drama.


::gavel::

[jln]

Apr 20, 2015 19:34:43 GMT -5 eclaires said:

Apr 20, 2015 19:33:37 GMT -5 pixy0stix said:

Why monogram your car?

Nevermind. I don't want to know.

It's a mystery, but the bigger, the better on your rear window.

Everyone has them here.  And they're bright purple, hot pink or teal.