Critique my Spain itinerary

[RockNVoll]

Anyone want to give feedback on our itinerary for Spain?  It's our first trip since Jan. 2020 and I'm equal parts excited and anxious, LOL.  I've scoured old posts for various recommendations, but would happily take more!

Day 1: Madrid
- Arrive via red eye

- Drop bags at Airbnb

- Explore Parque del Retiro until food tour starts
- Devour Tours food tour

- Check into Airbnb and rest
- Palacio de Cibeles observation deck/Plaza de Cibeles
- Reina Sofia

Day 2: Madrid
- El Rastro flea market
- Free walking tour
- Prado Museum
- Royal Palace

Day 3: Toledo day trip #1
- TrainVision tourist train
- Walk around town
- Toledo Cathedral
- Santo Tome
- Back to Madrid

Day 4: Toledo day trip #2
- El Martes outdoor market
- Transito Synagogue
- Santa Maria Blanca synagogue
- Back to Madrid

Day 5: Segovia > Granada
- Leave luggage in locker at train station
- Train to Segovia
- Bus to aqueduct, follow Rick Steve’s 30 min. self-guided walk
- Alcazar
- Cathedral
- Train to Madrid, grab luggage, train to Granada

Day 6: Granada
- Free walking tour
- Royal Chapel
- Hammam Al Andalus for a soak and massage
- Albaicin & Sacromonte free walking tour

Day 7: Granada
- Alhambra
- Free time
- Train to Sevilla

Day 8: Sevilla
- Walking tour
- April Fair (excited for this!)

Day 9: Sevilla
- Cathedral rooftop tour
- Cathedral
- Alcazar
- Devour Tours Tapas & Flamenco Tour

Day 10: Cordoba day trip
- Train to Cordoba
- Return to Sevilla for evening

Day 11: Fly home

[gaudi]

I think it looks good. DH and I studied in Spain in law school so it has been 15+ years, but we are planning a trip for 2023 so I have been brainstorming itineraries. Any chance you could stay the night in Toledo? It's really charming at night.

We did a weekend Segovia and wasn't a huge fan, so with your limited schedule, I would do El Escorial or Valley of the Fallen.

So much of the charm of Spain is just wandering the streets and discovering courtyards and parks. Hope you have an amazing trip!

[neonpink]

It sounds awesome. My only advice is the Prado is huge. So maybe look up some things you’d really want to see. It’s still one of my favorite museums ever. A lot of work I studied in college is there. The black paintings by Goya were so emotional to see in person. As well as his Las meninas. It’s massive. Bosch’s garden of earthly delights is also there. So many amazing works of art.

Picasso’s Guernica is in the modern museum and is as relevant today as it was when Picasso painted it. Especially with the world today. On YouTube is an art in 15 minutes about the painting. I watched it this week.

The audio tours for Rick Steves’ you can listen to on your phone are helpful.

. The cathedral in Toledo is amazing. Wear comfy shoes, Toledo is very hilly. I wore old converse and between those and the cobblestone streets my feet.

Alhambras audio guide is short but really made exploring the building more meaningful. Not sure if Granada still does it but when I was there if you ordered a drink they gave you a tapas. One of my favorite days was hanging in the squares, drinking sangria and looking up at Alhambra.

Now I want to go back to Spain.

[sakoro]

Apr 6, 2022 20:12:05 GMT -5 RockNVoll said:

Anyone want to give feedback on our itinerary for Spain?  It's our first trip since Jan. 2020 and I'm equal parts excited and anxious, LOL.  I've scoured old posts for various recommendations, but would happily take more!

I think this is a great itinerary! I studied in Granada 21 years ago and got to travel all over Spain. So glad you are going to Andalusia and seeing Granada, Córdoba and Sevilla! I also loved Toledo and the museums in Madrid.

In Cordoba, definitely check out the Cathedral/ former Mosque, which still looks like a mosque. In Granada, go to the Mirador de San Nicolas in the Albaycin for the iconic view of the Alhambra.

I know that you have limited time and want to see as much as possible in each place, but my advice would be to take things slow and not try to pack in too much. Spain has its own pace and part of the charm is just strolling around and checking out the houses, gardens and street life. Go to one of the main squares and relax with a coffee or drink while people-watching at least once a day 😊

[RockNVoll]

gaudi, logistically, yes, we could stay in Toledo for the night but I thought it might be more trouble than it's worth to pack everything up and move hotels for just one night (maybe two), especially given how close it is to Madrid and that we have to transit through Madrid to get to Segovia. Do you think evenings in Toledo are interesting enough to make it worthwhile?

neonpink, thanks for all the tips! I became very acquainted with the Rick Steves Audio Europe guide while living in London and loved it for the big museums there. He did such a good job of curating down enormous places to the bigger highlights. Sadly, he doesn't seem to provide them for the Spanish museums the same way, which is weird because really the audio guides are just him reading what's written in his book for the self-guided tour! But it's super helpful not to have your head down in a book and just be able to listen to him while you're looking at the art (though I think his voice is kind of annoying, LOL). Definitely plan to see Guernica (and thanks for the YouTube video tip). Also currently shopping for new shoes for my stupid wide feet and kind of failing miserably. Wish me luck!

sakoro, definitely appreciate the advice to leave unscheduled time. I definitely try to sprinkle that in wherever possible when I plan our trips. There's going to be lots of time in the evenings since dinners are so late there, and I have some free time built into a few days but it's definitely always a balancing act between wanting to see/do all the things and just relaxing!

Appreciate you all taking a look and providing feedback! Sounds like what I've built is generally reasonable and I appreciate getting validation from those who have gone before.

[gaudi]

Apr 8, 2022 9:39:52 GMT -5 RockNVoll said:

gaudi , logistically, yes, we could stay in Toledo for the night but I thought it might be more trouble than it's worth to pack everything up and move hotels for just one night (maybe two), especially given how close it is to Madrid and that we have to transit through Madrid to get to Segovia. Do you think evenings in Toledo are interesting enough to make it worthwhile?

neonpink , thanks for all the tips! I became very acquainted with the Rick Steves Audio Europe guide while living in London and loved it for the big museums there. He did such a good job of curating down enormous places to the bigger highlights. Sadly, he doesn't seem to provide them for the Spanish museums the same way, which is weird because really the audio guides are just him reading what's written in his book for the self-guided tour! But it's super helpful not to have your head down in a book and just be able to listen to him while you're looking at the art (though I think his voice is kind of annoying, LOL). Definitely plan to see Guernica (and thanks for the YouTube video tip). Also currently shopping for new shoes for my stupid wide feet and kind of failing miserably. Wish me luck!

sakoro , definitely appreciate the advice to leave unscheduled time. I definitely try to sprinkle that in wherever possible when I plan our trips. There's going to be lots of time in the evenings since dinners are so late there, and I have some free time built into a few days but it's definitely always a balancing act between wanting to see/do all the things and just relaxing!

Appreciate you all taking a look and providing feedback! Sounds like what I've built is generally reasonable and I appreciate getting validation from those who have gone before.

I think Toledo is worth it because it so different from Madrid in the evening/night. I vividly remember walking around and suddenly noticing the crowds were gone and everything seemed to slow down. My DH is an earlier riser, so spending a night allows him to get up and start exploring before sunrise. I think we tend to prefer the smaller cities because it is quicker/easier to get our bearings so we can slow down and enjoy the present without feeling pressured to rush to the next thing.

[majesty318]

I don't think you should do Prado & palace the same day as both are pretty intense/ take time.
I recommend trying to book the kitchen tour at the palace - book 30 days out here: tickets.patrimonionacional.es/en-GB/informacion-recinto/24/cocinas-palacio-real-de-madrid

Segovia & Granada trains are most likely not from the same station. Segovia is north so it goes from Chamartin (definitely, I just did this). Granada is south so it likely goes from Atocha (double check).
Also, the luggage storage at the train stations is not open. We just recently needed to store luggage and found an independent company called Locker in the City which has various locations.

The April fair in Seville - do you know anyone there? It is kind of "not open to the public." People have their own casetas where they drink/ dance etc but you need to know someone to join their caseta. Also, dress up! Women wear flamenco-type dresses which could be a lot of fun.

[RockNVoll]

Thanks, majesty318. I was a little concerned about Prado and Palace on the same day as well, but I think we'll just spend however much time we feel up for at each and call it if we're done. Especially with the Prado as we've been lucky to have gone to a lot of really great art museums in major cities so if we have to leave a little undiscovered at the Prado this time, it'll just give us a reason to come back

I do know we have to go to different train stations on the Segovia > Granada day and have accounted for that time. Thanks for the luggage storage rec; I figured it would be easiest to just store at Chamartin since we have to transit back through there anyway, but good to have options.

As for April fair, there are supposed to be public tents as well. Not as charming as the family & friends ones I'm sure, but a friend told me she did the public ones and still had a really great time. We shall see! Appreciate the tip to dress up a little!

[sakoro]

I visited 20 years ago but I remember the Prado Museum had paper guides that lead you to certain highlights. For example: it will explain the most direct route from Velasquez “Las Meninas” to the Goya section so you can see the highlights in under 2 hours.

One of my all time favorite museums! Enjoy!

[majesty318]

Apr 13, 2022 21:40:35 GMT -5 RockNVoll said:

Thanks, majesty318 . I was a little concerned about Prado and Palace on the same day as well, but I think we'll just spend however much time we feel up for at each and call it if we're done. Especially with the Prado as we've been lucky to have gone to a lot of really great art museums in major cities so if we have to leave a little undiscovered at the Prado this time, it'll just give us a reason to come back

I do know we have to go to different train stations on the Segovia > Granada day and have accounted for that time. Thanks for the luggage storage rec; I figured it would be easiest to just store at Chamartin since we have to transit back through there anyway, but good to have options.

As for April fair, there are supposed to be public tents as well. Not as charming as the family & friends ones I'm sure, but a friend told me she did the public ones and still had a really great time. We shall see! Appreciate the tip to dress up a little!

Just regarding the luggage - currently you can't store at Chamartin. The facilities have been closed since COVID started.

[majesty318]

Sorry, just thought of a few more things for you! We just came back on April 3 and I have been to Spain many times -

In Retiro, try to see the peacocks. When I was there in 2017, you could get pretty close - but last week their little park was locked. It is Pabellón de los Jardines de Cecilio Rodriguez to find on a map.

Devour Tours is awesome - I have done them in several cities - so enjoy that!

The best observation deck is supposedly Círculo de Bellas Artes but I have never actually made it there. The rooftop of Riu Plaza España is pretty crazy (glass floor) but also didn't make it there.

Rastro - go early. We went at maybe 9 AM? Stopped at La Mallorquina for pastries (one of the few times there wasn't a line out the door) and then headed to the Rastro where we entered without issue. By the time we left, the cops had barricades several blocks ahead and were making people wait to enter till others left, as well as enforcing masks.

The bus from the train station in Segovia to the aqueduct costs 2 euro and only cash. If you take the same bus back, it is stop acueducto 3 (there are several at the aqueduct which made me lose my mind). If standing looking out from the aqueduct, it is on the left a little way down the hill and it is bus # 11. Are you going to try to eat cochinillo or lamb in Segovia?

In Madrid, we did a walking tour about the Spanish Inquisition with Sandemans and it was fantastic - I feel like sometimes these walking tours are dumb but we loved this one.

The bathroom in Chamartin costs 1 euro. It is a new fancy concept with bird noises and foliage 

[RockNVoll]

majesty318, love all the details, thanks so much! I think the Devour Tours idea came from one of your past posts because I searched here for previously posted advice during my planning. Really appreciate all your little tips above; I like knowing what to expect!

Ugh re: no lockers at Chamartin. I thought I had looked it up and confirmed they were re-open but maybe not. I totally missed the first time that you said they weren't available and that's why you used the commercial place. Is there one relatively close to Chamartin? I'll look it up too, but in case you know off the top of your head...

[majesty318]

RockNVoll, the only site I can find about the lockers at Chamartin says they are still closed (https://www.esmadrid.com/informacion-turistica/consignas-estacion-madrid-chamartin-clara-campoamor) . I had also asked on TripAdvisor before I went. But possible it has changed in the past 2 weeks! It looks like this company offers storage though supposedly nearby - luggagehero.com/es/madrid/chamartin-train-station/

I also thought of more stuff for you!

Book Royal Palace tix ahead of time. When we went, there was a huge line if you did not have tickets and no line if you did. IF you buy them ahead and you get there and see a big line, go around it to the left - on the actual entrance it is split into 2 sections for with tickets/ without tickets.

In case you want restaurant ideas in Madrid:
La Sanabresa (one of my all-time favorites, it is like down-home Spanish cooking - always a line so don't go on the weekend).
Mercado de la Reina (different menu at the bar and in the restaurant - we did both - bar is simpler/ cheaper but I actually preferred it)
Casa Alberto (also always a line except when we went at a super random time)
This is a map of some authentic tapas places - tapas are free in Madrid bars: www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?usp=sharing&mid=zggle1aZu3J4.kOWq9fY1c4q8

[RockNVoll]

Apr 14, 2022 13:15:20 GMT -5 majesty318 said:

tapas are free in Madrid bars: www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?usp=sharing&mid=zggle1aZu3J4.kOWq9fY1c4q8

Say what?!

[majesty318]

Apr 14, 2022 13:34:27 GMT -5 RockNVoll said:

Apr 14, 2022 13:15:20 GMT -5 majesty318 said:

tapas are free in Madrid bars: www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?usp=sharing&mid=zggle1aZu3J4.kOWq9fY1c4q8

Say what?!

LOL yes! If you order a drink in a tapas bar, they give you a little snack for free. You don't get to choose what it is, but if you stay for more than one drink, they will bring you a different one the next time. They are free in Granada too and tend to be a little larger.

Oh also in Madrid they are happy to give you tap water if you ask for "un vaso de agua." I am not sure in the other cities, I know some can be difficult with it.

[mrsd2006]

There's a Rick Steves free tour for walking around Madrid, starts in one of the squares (that's what we did there).

Any reason you are skipping Barcelona? Have you been there before?

[RockNVoll]

Apr 18, 2022 11:24:28 GMT -5 mrsd2006 said:

There's a Rick Steves free tour for walking around Madrid, starts in one of the squares (that's what we did there).

Any reason you are skipping Barcelona? Have you been there before?

Yep, been to Barcelona a couple of times.

[RockNVoll]

majesty318, have you been to any of the Michelin-started restaurants in Madrid? Looking to pick one for a belated birthday celebration for DH.

[majesty318]

Apr 24, 2022 0:24:29 GMT -5 RockNVoll said:

majesty318 , have you been to any of the Michelin-started restaurants in Madrid? Looking to pick one for a belated birthday celebration for DH.

Sorry, I haven't!