I wouldn't keep metal ones myself if I could afford to get rid of them. Metal is a great way to conduct all your heat outside. Wood is a much better insulator. Also, there's no "old-growth" metal worth protecting Key is not replacing with vinyl, which will be a rip-out-and-replace cycle that will not pay for itself, but with an attractive, quality wood window.
The National Lab study and National Park service info is at near the end of my bio.
Post by sierramist03 on Mar 12, 2013 23:59:58 GMT -5
It don't know if it possible but my parents just replaced the storms on their windows rather than buying and replacing all the windows. I don't know their budget but it be a cheaper option.
Post by bunnymendelbaum on Mar 13, 2013 7:37:03 GMT -5
A firm I do contract work for does old mill restorations/ adaptive reuse projects. They often have to keep old metal windows for the tax credits. They keep the frame (steel sashes) and install very thin insulated glazing units. They are about 3/8" thick.
Storm windows are good for efficiency. I just hate the way those old aluminum ones look on old houses. A lot of the ones around here were used to replace nice wood windows. The ones on the industrial buildings are usually a lot nicer looking. I guess I'd decide based on how they look whether to insulate or replace ( and look at cost).
eta finding parts to fix them may also be difficult if it's a parts problem. Th only part I've ever needed for fixing old wood is cord and wood parting beads, so nothing special.
Remind me where you are again? If it is the Midwest I'm going to agree with Juno. Replace them with quality wood aluminum clad windows. Even with storms metal windows do not meet the R-value needed in a heating dominated climate. Here let me dig out my ASHRAE Fundamental book...
U-value = 1 / R-value
Uncoated, operable single pane metal frame windows without thermal break = U-value of 2.38 (for that age of window this is likely what they are)
Same window with a metal thermal break (separate strip of metal inside of frame but still it's metal on glass so not good) = U-value of 1.2
Wood double pane window with non-metal thermal break and low e- coating = U-value of 0.49 (And that is just the general number. There are another 6 pages of detailed tables but I don't have all of the specifics. Our new wood casements are far better than that at 0.34 or there about.)
So a new window is almost 5 times better at not conducting heat! Adding storms would help but they won't get anywhere near that kind of energy savings. We have metal framed storms on our junky wood windows and they have not held up well to our harsh WI winters. Of the 19 windows we have only 4 or so of them still have a good storm and frame. The storms themselves are warped and not square in the frame leaving gaps around the edges. The plastic track they slide into is chipped and broken everywhere. And they are very difficult to get in and out without wrecking them more so we just leave them in like the previous owners did.
We're replacing them all overtime with Marvin windows. I can't say enough good things about the quality and prices. We have all fiberglass windows in the master bathroom because of the humidity/condensation but are going with wood aluminum clad (Marvin Ultimates) for all of the rest of the house. The Ultimates blow the fiberglass ones out of the water! They were only a small difference in price but the product is a million times better. We just cut the visqueen off the bathroom windows this weekend (we haven't see them since we put them in last fall) and I was reminded on the differences. Makes me kind of sad that we didn't use the wood ones everywhere. It might have been worth it to just replace those if moisture ever was an issue because they just suck all around. Don't get me wrong they are still x10 better than any vinyl window I've ever seen but trust me wood is the way to go!