Fire codes and attic bedrooms

[wawa]

The first issue that comes to mind is that you need a big enough window. Beyond that I'd have to do some reading.

ETA: I'm running simulations and bored. Is the new place inside the city limits?

[FoxInFiji]

What code are you looking at? Check out the 2009 IRC for the most comprehensive code on that subject. Most states take that an alter/make changes so check with your state and local code as well.

I think you need only a 1 hour fire rating. That can easily be achieved with most building standards. Ceilings (weither there is an occupied floor above or not) need to be 3/4" thick drywall per code. 3/4" drywall has some fire resistance unlike the 1/2" drywall used for walls. Older homes may still have 1/2" ceilings so try taking out a light or smoke detector to measure the thickness.

For escape routes you need an egress sized window. Then the egress path is different if you have a walkable roof outside the window (flat or a pitch shallow enough for the requirements) or if the exterior wall goes straight down (this window is accessible for a fireman on a ladder). Either way for personal safety I'd have one of those rollout ladders stored nearby.

Besides that you'll need to maintain a code minimum insulation value...if you're taking the ceilings up to the trusses you'll probably need to pay for some pricey spray foam insulation to maintain this requirement. There are certain head heights that need to be maintained in a % of the sf space added (ie. a 6' tall person has to be able to walk around all but the edges of the room) so how many rooms you can get out of the space may be affected by that. You'll need one or more hardwired smoke detectors that are tied into the other smoke detectors in the house...if your home's current smoke and CO2 detectors aren't up to code they will have to be upgraded and hardwiring added to each. Then your state code will determine if your furnace and A/C system needs to be upgraded in size based on the Manual J calcs. There are also a number of codes that are based on the number of bedrooms in a house most which only apply to homes in the country that have their own well and septic so you probably don't have those. If you're adding a bathroom though you might need a bigger water heater and water softener (these aren't code).

[FoxInFiji]

Oh OK I thought it was a house you already had.

Hm those homes might have latte and plaster ceilings which would probably equal a fire rating. They will be hard to work with and add wiring to though.

A typical wet sprinkler system would be very, very expensive. If you were to add one there is really no point to not sprinkler the whole house. A dry pre-acation system with various control types might be an option for just that floor but again that would be pretty pricey and you would need some type of mechanical room up there.

But in a home that age the #1 fire hazard you will have by FAR is knob and tub wiring. If you want a fire safe house just don't buy a home that doesn't have 100% upgraded electrical. You can try to include the cost of upgrade in a purchase but few sellers agree to it because the cost is so high.

[FoxInFiji]

Jun 19, 2012 14:25:09 GMT -5 asdfjkl said:

It's moot anyway because the electric in this house was upgraded (along with the plumbing and windows) some time after 2003.

Also old homes generally don't have lathe and plaster in their attics. It's usually rafters and the underside of the roof.

Well having all upgraded k&t is a great start!

No I was meaning the ceiling of the floor below would probably be lathe and plaster not the attic itself. I was still discussing the fire rating between the ceiling and the attic.

Good luck! Looks like a super cute house.

[mswax]

The house we are moving into in 8 days (yes, only 8 more days) has a finished attic. We are planning to use it as a playroom, but it will likely double as a guest room with a futon.

There are 2 full-sized windows and 2 smaller windows up there. It's not technically a bedroom, so I can't speak to any additional precautions that would be needed if it were, but aside from putting another smoke and carbon monoxide detector up there, I don't think there is anything else we'd have to do.

[pamela]

We had a minimum living area with >6' ceiling height and requirement for 2nd escape. We changed the fixed 3' skylights to "roof windows" which fully open and are an acceptable escape route.

[sugardumpling]

We had wanted to do this i our house but the town requires a sprinkler system. Way too much money for us.