Article about Paula's Choice

[bimbi284]

nymag.com/thecut/2015/01/beauty-guru-calling-foul-on-the-industry.html?mid=facebook_thecutblog

"Don’t encourage the [skin-care] industry to be assholes," Paula Begoun, the founder of beauty brand Paula’s Choice and self-proclaimed cosmetics cop, told me when I asked her about how she rates beauty brands on her website. Unlike other online beauty reviewers, Begoun's site takes a scientific approach to reviewing beauty products: She analyzes their ingredients rather than testing the products, and gives them a rating, followed by an often tongue-in-cheek explanation of the product's grade.

After decades of analyzing skin-care and makeup products this way, Begoun developed her own beauty line in 1995, which includes one of the best retinol serums on the market and offers skin-care solutions for everything from adult acne to sensitive skin. The Cut talked to Begoun about her strictly scientific approach to beauty, how Paula’s Choice is different from other beauty brands, why she refuses to sell face scrubs, and how brands react when she dishes out a negative review.

How does Paula’s Choice stand out from the thousands of other cosmetics companies?
All of the skin-care products we offer on Paula’s Choice are based on (and I can’t stress this enough) published research [like the Lancet]. On every one of our products' pages, we list all of the research that backs our ingredient selection and our product claims. I have never seen another company, in my 30 years of reviewing and researching cosmetics and skin-care products, do that. Before we put a formula together, the ingredients have to have research showing that it matches what skin is capable of and what the research says works. I don’t expect my customers to be my guinea pig. Companies love showcasing this miracle ingredient from the rain forest or the French countryside, or China. Whatever it is, it’s never from New York! The skin is the largest organ of the body and it’s very complicated. It’s the only organ where the mass is exposed to the outside. Skin requires a complicated, complex array of ingredients to make it healthy, to fight certain skin disorders, and to stay young.

What is your review process at Paula’s Choice?
We review skin-care products strictly by ingredient list. You don’t need to smoke a cigarette to know it’s bad. You don’t need to wear a cream to know that it’s bad, too. I would never ask someone to put a bad product on their skin because the damage could show up years later. Or the damage is insidious. Let’s take irritating ingredients. Irritating ingredients cause immune suppression (meaning the skin won’t heal as well), reduce the skin’s ability to fight environmental damage, and break down collagen and elasticity. All of that is happening underneath, where you don’t see it.

Do you conduct your own clinical trials?
We don’t launch a product without doing our own clinical studies. But clinical studies are very limited. I can give you a cream, tell you to put it on half of your face, and say it’s $150 from a super-fancy company. I could also give you a $10 cream and tell you to put it on the other side of your face. There was a study done many years ago that showed that even though both creams were the exact same product, 83 percent of the women tested said they preferred the so-called expensive cream.

Companies really floor me with their miracle ingredient claims. If it’s so great for skin, then why the hell aren’t they using it in all of their products? How do women get around that insanity? Skin is too complicated; there is not a magic bullet lying out there in some exotic location or some fancy laboratory. It doesn’t exist. It’s a lie, and [companies] lie about it all the time. You’ve got to get around the marketing to take great care of your skin.

Your website downgrades products based on their pH or packaging for efficacy. How is that so?
The issue that you see with pH is generally with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Salicylic acid [BHA] is like an unsung hero that’s been around forever, in terms of reducing blemishes, fighting skin discoloration, building collagen, etc. AHAs also help with building collagen and evening out skin tone. They are brilliant ingredients, but they are only effective somewhere between a pH of 3.2 and 4. Most, but not all, products are made in that pH range.

In terms of containers, the problem is that the most important ingredients for skin, like antioxidants, don’t like air. They break down when exposed to air. When you take the lid off of a skin-care jar and you dip your finger in it, you’re not only transferring bacteria from your finger to the product, but you’re also letting in air. Preservatives don’t help, either — they only prevent you from getting an infection or stop mold from growing. Think about how long an orange lasts in your refrigerator — the same thing happens to antioxidants. Just don’t buy a jar. Don’t encourage the industry to be assholes. [Editor's note: Begoun prefers pumps and opaque tubes.]

Do you ever get a response from cosmetics companies when you negatively review one of their products?
In the 30 years that I’ve been doing this, I can count on one or two hands the number of times I got a letter. I think mostly they just ignore us.

Do you feel a conflict of interest selling your own products while reviewing others?
I was reviewing products well before I launched my own product line. Prior to launching Paula’s Choice, I had written ten books. So I had already been a critic. We are the only cosmetics company in the world to recommend products other than our own. Perhaps the conflict of interest is, what is someone like me, who owns a cosmetics company, doing recommending other products than my own? Maybe I’m the crazy one.

What are the standout products at Paula’s Choice?
I’m particularly proud of our assortment of BHAs. We came out with all of these versions to accommodate different preferences and skin types. I’m also very proud of our serums. They’re packed with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients. What’s also nice about these products and unusual is that most of these are non-aqueous — they aren’t made with water. It keeps the antioxidants even more stable. We also have an assortment of retinol products. Retinol is a fascinating ingredient because it’s one of the few cell-communicating ingredients that we know the most about. Retinol is one of those hero ingredients, and we have several of them. All of our retinol comes in stable packing and is available from .3 percent to 1 percent.

You don’t sell face scrubs. Why?
When you scrub skin with abrasive scrubs, they put micro-tears into skin. And when you tear it, you damage the barrier to skin, which can cause all sorts of problems because it’s bad for skin. What we do recommend is the Clarisonic, and you can also use a soft washcloth and a gentle cleanser. Damaging the surface of skin is always bad for the skin. It makes it more vulnerable to environmental damage, pollution, and sun damage. You might have heard that it will help with collagen, but that’s like saying I’ll smoke a cigarette because I find it relaxing. There are other ways to stimulate collagen without damaging the skin. [Paula's Choice does offer chemical exfoliants, however.]

This interview has been edited and condensed.

[veruca5839]

Thanks for sharing!

I am forever indebted to PC because it changed my skin for the better when I had years and years of other products and medications under my belt that did nothing. My only regret it not finding out about PC sooner. I also find the Beautypedia reviews very helpful.

[cosmowife]

Her prices are so reasonable. I've been using her stuff for about the last 9 months or so, and this is the first winter that I can actually stand my skin. Her products are actually keeping me hydrated, unlike the zillions of combinations I've been trying for years. Her products are also the only ones that have somewhat decreased my redness.

[IIOY]

Jan 27, 2015 8:54:05 GMT -5 cosmowife said:

Her prices are so reasonable. I've been using her stuff for about the last 9 months or so, and this is the first winter that I can actually stand my skin. Her products are actually keeping me hydrated, unlike the zillions of combinations I've been trying for years. Her products are also the only ones that have somewhat decreased my redness.

What are you using?  Beginning last winter, my skin - and especially my forehead - have had extreme reactions to the cold, dry weather to the point that I'm crazy itchy and red.  I was also flaky until I started slathering super thick moisturizers on my forehead almost hourly.  Unfortunately they don't help with the itchiness or redness.  

I'm finally seeing a dermatologist on Thursday, but I suspect her recommendations will involve a prescription rather than daily skin care products.

[xokell2]

I always check the beautypedia reviews before buying something.

I have a hard time sticking to any routine long enough to get attached to a regimen but I've never been disappointed by the PC skin care products I've tried. I do find the makeup line kind of underwhelming but I'm particular about needing long lasting mu.

ETA: PC products are only available online right? If it weren't for here and spektra I'm not sure the brand would have ever even been on my radar. 

[DaisyCakes]

Thanks for sharing. I love her so hard.

[cosmowife]

Jan 27, 2015 10:28:32 GMT -5 IIOY said:

Jan 27, 2015 8:54:05 GMT -5 cosmowife said:

Her prices are so reasonable. I've been using her stuff for about the last 9 months or so, and this is the first winter that I can actually stand my skin. Her products are actually keeping me hydrated, unlike the zillions of combinations I've been trying for years. Her products are also the only ones that have somewhat decreased my redness.

What are you using?  Beginning last winter, my skin - and especially my forehead - have had extreme reactions to the cold, dry weather to the point that I'm crazy itchy and red.  I was also flaky until I started slathering super thick moisturizers on my forehead almost hourly.  Unfortunately they don't help with the itchiness or redness.  

I'm finally seeing a dermatologist on Thursday, but I suspect her recommendations will involve a prescription rather than daily skin care products.

Mainly everything in the skin recovery line (with the red labels).  This is my routine:
-SKIN RECOVERY SOFTENING CREAM CLEANSER (once per day at night with a soft washcloth.  Just splash with water in AM)
-RESIST REPLENISHING TONER (blue bottle) (pour a small amount into hand and apply with fingers all over, not cotton ball.  Let dry.  Basically like an extra layer of water on your face.  I think this is what makes the difference.  Paula's Choice rep told me this was the most moisturizing toner).
- 1% BHA LOTION (don't ever move up to 2% - 2% is super drying!!)
-SKIN RECOVERY ANTIOXIDANT SERUM WITH RETINOL
-SKIN RECOVERY MOISTURIZER (for eyes and face)

Everything is applied twice a day except the cleanser, which I only use at night.  
In the morning I also use ThinkBaby sunscreen (from Amazon) which is also moisturizing.  

She also makes a new oil product that you can add to the other products or use on its own, but it ran into my eyes so it didn't work well for me.  The customer service rep was very helpful - I basically called and said, "give me your ultimate moisturizing line up" and she walked me through product by product.

[electricmayhem]

I admit that I am a little skeptical that practically every one of her own products gets a "BEST" rating.

However, I find her reviews to be really invaluable; I recommend her reviews to others and she's the first place I look when I'm considering trying a new skin care product. Her reviews of CeraVe Moisturizing Cream (my HG moisturizer) are what pushed me into trying it--and saved me from spending 10x more on something crappier from a department store.

[DirtySouth]

I love PC and her Beautipedia reviews. I also always check the reviews before buying a product. I have a fantastic skin care regimen almost all from the drugstore, thanks to their reviews.

I cringe when I see people spending a bunch of money on skincare stuff at Sephora. It's expensive and most of it is mediocre or worse. People rave about the Purity Made Simple face wash and it's actually bad for your skin. We really are such victims of marketing and fall for pretty bottles, expensive prices, and nice scents (myself included). It just feels nicer to use the expensive stuff rather than a plastic, cheap bottle of CeraVe, but the science is behind the cheap stuff.

[kate]

I will admit it took me a little longer to try her products because, the name Paula's choice sounds a little iffy/slightly infomercial like. HOWEVER, this brand is the only one I have ever used that actually got rid of my adult acne. The toner with salicylic acid is my favorite skin care product ever. Ever ever. Love.

[IIOY]

Jan 27, 2015 11:16:20 GMT -5 cosmowife said:

Jan 27, 2015 10:28:32 GMT -5 IIOY said:

What are you using?  Beginning last winter, my skin - and especially my forehead - have had extreme reactions to the cold, dry weather to the point that I'm crazy itchy and red.  I was also flaky until I started slathering super thick moisturizers on my forehead almost hourly.  Unfortunately they don't help with the itchiness or redness.  

I'm finally seeing a dermatologist on Thursday, but I suspect her recommendations will involve a prescription rather than daily skin care products.

Mainly everything in the skin recovery line (with the red labels).  This is my routine:
-SKIN RECOVERY SOFTENING CREAM CLEANSER (once per day at night with a soft washcloth.  Just splash with water in AM)
-RESIST REPLENISHING TONER (blue bottle) (pour a small amount into hand and apply with fingers all over, not cotton ball.  Let dry.  Basically like an extra layer of water on your face.  I think this is what makes the difference.  Paula's Choice rep told me this was the most moisturizing toner).
- 1% BHA LOTION (don't ever move up to 2% - 2% is super drying!!)
-SKIN RECOVERY ANTIOXIDANT SERUM WITH RETINOL
-SKIN RECOVERY MOISTURIZER (for eyes and face)

Everything is applied twice a day except the cleanser, which I only use at night.  
In the morning I also use ThinkBaby sunscreen (from Amazon) which is also moisturizing.  

She also makes a new oil product that you can add to the other products or use on its own, but it ran into my eyes so it didn't work well for me.  The customer service rep was very helpful - I basically called and said, "give me your ultimate moisturizing line up" and she walked me through product by product.

I appreciate all of this.  I'm was about to place an order and realized that was really silly given that my appointment is two days away.  I'm going to see what the doctor says and then look to purchase some items.

[sunshineandpinot]

Jan 27, 2015 11:57:23 GMT -5 DirtySouth said:

I love PC and her Beautipedia reviews. I also always check the reviews before buying a product. I have a fantastic skin care regimen almost all from the drugstore, thanks to their reviews.

I cringe when I see people spending a bunch of money on skincare stuff at Sephora. It's expensive and most of it is mediocre or worse. People rave about the Purity Made Simple face wash and it's actually bad for your skin. We really are such victims of marketing and fall for pretty bottles, expensive prices, and nice scents (myself included). It just feels nicer to use the expensive stuff rather than a plastic, cheap bottle of CeraVe, but the science is behind the cheap stuff.

What?!?!? Say it isn't so! I love Purity! What's a good substitute? Because, ya know, I'm sure I'll finish my 1L bottle within a year or two

[Deleted]

Jan 27, 2015 11:57:23 GMT -5 DirtySouth said:

I love PC and her Beautipedia reviews. I also always check the reviews before buying a product. I have a fantastic skin care regimen almost all from the drugstore, thanks to their reviews.

I cringe when I see people spending a bunch of money on skincare stuff at Sephora. It's expensive and most of it is mediocre or worse. People rave about the Purity Made Simple face wash and it's actually bad for your skin. We really are such victims of marketing and fall for pretty bottles, expensive prices, and nice scents (myself included). It just feels nicer to use the expensive stuff rather than a plastic, cheap bottle of CeraVe, but the science is behind the cheap stuff.

I like using luxurious products too, however, face wash isn't one of them. I have a hard time spending beaucoup dollaz on something that is literally going down the drain. Cheap facial/body cleansers FTW!

[cosmowife]

Jan 27, 2015 16:26:25 GMT -5 IIOY said:

Jan 27, 2015 11:16:20 GMT -5 cosmowife said:

Mainly everything in the skin recovery line (with the red labels).  This is my routine:
-SKIN RECOVERY SOFTENING CREAM CLEANSER (once per day at night with a soft washcloth.  Just splash with water in AM)
-RESIST REPLENISHING TONER (blue bottle) (pour a small amount into hand and apply with fingers all over, not cotton ball.  Let dry.  Basically like an extra layer of water on your face.  I think this is what makes the difference.  Paula's Choice rep told me this was the most moisturizing toner).
- 1% BHA LOTION (don't ever move up to 2% - 2% is super drying!!)
-SKIN RECOVERY ANTIOXIDANT SERUM WITH RETINOL
-SKIN RECOVERY MOISTURIZER (for eyes and face)

Everything is applied twice a day except the cleanser, which I only use at night.  
In the morning I also use ThinkBaby sunscreen (from Amazon) which is also moisturizing.  

She also makes a new oil product that you can add to the other products or use on its own, but it ran into my eyes so it didn't work well for me.  The customer service rep was very helpful - I basically called and said, "give me your ultimate moisturizing line up" and she walked me through product by product.

I appreciate all of this.  I'm was about to place an order and realized that was really silly given that my appointment is two days away.  I'm going to see what the doctor says and then look to purchase some items.

That's a good idea.  I also highly recommend calling their customer service number after your appointment and talking through your concerns with their rep.  They know everything about the products.

[DirtySouth]

Jan 27, 2015 18:58:57 GMT -5 sunshineandpinot said:

Jan 27, 2015 11:57:23 GMT -5 DirtySouth said:

I love PC and her Beautipedia reviews. I also always check the reviews before buying a product. I have a fantastic skin care regimen almost all from the drugstore, thanks to their reviews.

I cringe when I see people spending a bunch of money on skincare stuff at Sephora. It's expensive and most of it is mediocre or worse. People rave about the Purity Made Simple face wash and it's actually bad for your skin. We really are such victims of marketing and fall for pretty bottles, expensive prices, and nice scents (myself included). It just feels nicer to use the expensive stuff rather than a plastic, cheap bottle of CeraVe, but the science is behind the cheap stuff.

What?!?!? Say it isn't so! I love Purity! What's a good substitute? Because, ya know, I'm sure I'll finish my 1L bottle within a year or two

www.paulaschoice.com/beautypedia-skin-care-reviews/by-brand/philosophy/_/purity-made-simple-3-in-1-cleanser-for-face-and-eyes

For normal to dry skin, either CeraVe hydrating or Cetaphil hydrating.  For normal to oily, both CeraVe and Cetahpil make a foaming version.

But there are tons of good options and you can check Beautypedia!  There are great products from Neutrogena, Clinique, Clean & Clear, Dove, and even Trader Joe's.

[bimbi284]

Happy to hear so many others also know the joy that is PC. Her Clear line of products was basically life changing, and I now use a combo of that and some from the Resist line. I still have a couple of non PC products I use, and can honestly say I never checked her ratings on them, but I've been considering switching it up anyway, and hope to replace them with PC or PC approved stuff in the near future.

For those wanting to try PC, they do have a referral program. First timers get $10 off, and the person referring gets a $10 credit. My referral link is goo.gl/oyIAbn in case anyone wants to use it!

[SKP82]

I adore PC products. I've been using them for a few years. It's the only line I've stuck with for a long period of time.

[Kimba]

I must live under a rock because I never heard of PC until Christmas-time. I've been obsessed ever since. I've tried a ton of new products based on their reviews and now I really want to try the PC resist line.

[IIOY]

So my derm wasn't really sure what's going on, and landed on a diagnosis of maybe rosacea and maybe suborrheic dermatitis. She gave me Rx face wash and cream. I will look into a few PC products and will use your referral code, bimbi284, if I order!

[IIOY]

Hey bimbi284, I placed an order and used your referral, so look for your $10 credit!

[bimbi284]

Jan 30, 2015 16:16:01 GMT -5 IIOY said:

Hey bimbi284, I placed an order and used your referral, so look for your $10 credit!

Hooray!! I hope the products work for you!! If they don't, they will take returns, so keep that in mind, too.

[IIOY]

Jan 27, 2015 11:16:20 GMT -5 cosmowife said:

Jan 27, 2015 10:28:32 GMT -5 IIOY said:

What are you using?  Beginning last winter, my skin - and especially my forehead - have had extreme reactions to the cold, dry weather to the point that I'm crazy itchy and red.  I was also flaky until I started slathering super thick moisturizers on my forehead almost hourly.  Unfortunately they don't help with the itchiness or redness.  

I'm finally seeing a dermatologist on Thursday, but I suspect her recommendations will involve a prescription rather than daily skin care products.

Mainly everything in the skin recovery line (with the red labels).  This is my routine:
-SKIN RECOVERY SOFTENING CREAM CLEANSER (once per day at night with a soft washcloth.  Just splash with water in AM)
-RESIST REPLENISHING TONER (blue bottle) (pour a small amount into hand and apply with fingers all over, not cotton ball.  Let dry.  Basically like an extra layer of water on your face.  I think this is what makes the difference.  Paula's Choice rep told me this was the most moisturizing toner).
- 1% BHA LOTION (don't ever move up to 2% - 2% is super drying!!)
-SKIN RECOVERY ANTIOXIDANT SERUM WITH RETINOL
-SKIN RECOVERY MOISTURIZER (for eyes and face)

Everything is applied twice a day except the cleanser, which I only use at night.  
In the morning I also use ThinkBaby sunscreen (from Amazon) which is also moisturizing.  

She also makes a new oil product that you can add to the other products or use on its own, but it ran into my eyes so it didn't work well for me.  The customer service rep was very helpful - I basically called and said, "give me your ultimate moisturizing line up" and she walked me through product by product.

cosmos, I wanted to let you know that these products made such a difference with my skin.  I wound up placing three orders total so I now use the cleanser, toner, serum (AM), moisturizer (AM), Clinical Ultra Rich Moisturizer (PM), and Resist Moisture Renewal Oil Booster (PM).  I also try to use the Hydrating Treatment Mask once a day.  

The oil makes a *huge* difference for me because it really amps up the moisturizers, and I'm actually able to use my active products now without scorching my skin.  It's my little miracle product.  The mask is the one product that I'm not entirely sure about.  It certainly doesn't hurt, but I'm not sold that it's making a difference on its own.

I do think the products may run into my eyes a bit during the day because I find my eyes frequently feel mildly irritated, as though I'm having allergy issues. It could also just be the cleanser because I've found they frequently feel irritated right out of the shower.  Or, it could actually be allergies because it's that time of year.

Hopefully I continue to have good luck with these products next winter, when we go back down to bone dry single digit weather.

[cosmowife]

Mar 4, 2015 17:35:46 GMT -5 IIOY said:

Jan 27, 2015 11:16:20 GMT -5 cosmowife said:

Mainly everything in the skin recovery line (with the red labels).  This is my routine:
-SKIN RECOVERY SOFTENING CREAM CLEANSER (once per day at night with a soft washcloth.  Just splash with water in AM)
-RESIST REPLENISHING TONER (blue bottle) (pour a small amount into hand and apply with fingers all over, not cotton ball.  Let dry.  Basically like an extra layer of water on your face.  I think this is what makes the difference.  Paula's Choice rep told me this was the most moisturizing toner).
- 1% BHA LOTION (don't ever move up to 2% - 2% is super drying!!)
-SKIN RECOVERY ANTIOXIDANT SERUM WITH RETINOL
-SKIN RECOVERY MOISTURIZER (for eyes and face)

Everything is applied twice a day except the cleanser, which I only use at night.  
In the morning I also use ThinkBaby sunscreen (from Amazon) which is also moisturizing.  

She also makes a new oil product that you can add to the other products or use on its own, but it ran into my eyes so it didn't work well for me.  The customer service rep was very helpful - I basically called and said, "give me your ultimate moisturizing line up" and she walked me through product by product.

cosmos, I wanted to let you know that these products made such a difference with my skin.  I wound up placing three orders total so I now use the cleanser, toner, serum (AM), moisturizer (AM), Clinical Ultra Rich Moisturizer (PM), and Resist Moisture Renewal Oil Booster (PM).  I also try to use the Hydrating Treatment Mask once a day.  

The oil makes a *huge* difference for me because it really amps up the moisturizers, and I'm actually able to use my active products now without scorching my skin.  It's my little miracle product.  The mask is the one product that I'm not entirely sure about.  It certainly doesn't hurt, but I'm not sold that it's making a difference on its own.

I do think the products may run into my eyes a bit during the day because I find my eyes frequently feel mildly irritated, as though I'm having allergy issues. It could also just be the cleanser because I've found they frequently feel irritated right out of the shower.  Or, it could actually be allergies because it's that time of year.

Hopefully I continue to have good luck with these products next winter, when we go back down to bone dry single digit weather.

I am so happy to hear this!  I know how frustrating it is to be so uncomfortable in the winter.  It used to hurt to move my face.  I am glad that you have found something that works, and I hope the products continue to work for you (and me)!