I'm going road bike shopping tomorrow, any tips?

[biomaj5]

DH is finally going to let me get a road bike! He's paying for part of it, and that's my anniversary present. Our anniversary is the 28th (well technically the 29th, but only every 4 years lol), so we're buying it then. But I'm going to go around to several bike stores tomorrow to try out the few that I'm looking at. My budget is $1000. I'm looking at 2 Treks and a Specialized. I'm open to other brands, but these 3 are all in the price range. I want to do duathlons, and I'm signed up for a Tour de Cure in June with my uncle.

This is what I'm considering:

2013 Trek Lexa ST: closeout price of $729, MSRP $990. I've done some googling and I'm not sure if the fact that it's a triple is a good thing or bad thing, or neither. I found mixed opinions online. 

2014 Trek Lexa C: $739. I know you're not supposed to buy based on color, but OMG this one is gorgeous. This one is a compact.

The thing about the Treks is that I'm not sure that a 47cm will fit me. I'm 4'11", and my inseam is 71cm. The stand over height for a 47cm Trek is 70.2cm, so I don't know if that's going to work. Because of that, I'm also going to go to a Specialized dealer to look at the 44cm bikes.

There are a couple of Specialized bikes that I could consider, but it seems to come down to compact crank vs triple. I've read that a triple is harder to shift, but idk if that's accurate or not. None of the local Specialized dealers list their bikes on their website, so I don't know if closeout models are available there. 

Dolce Compact: $820
Dolce Triple: $880 (prettier! lol)

My husband would not be pleased if I got this one because it's right at the top of the budget, but Dolce Sport Compact, $1000

On looks alone, I'd rather have a dark bike, not that that really matters all that much lol.

[finallykrisb]

I tried both of those Trek Lexa's and you will notice a definite difference in them because of the upgrades. If you decide to go with the Trek i would choose the close out bike because of that factor.

[Susie]

Standover height isn't really dispositive as to bike frame size, so make sure you work with someone who will help you make sure you are truly getting the right size for you.  A bike fitting, while usually an extra cost, is so, so, so worth it, and will save you a lot of discomfort (and possible injury) down the line.

I am 5'2" and have a 48 cm Specialized Ruby.  The Treks didn't fit me as well, but I'd have been a 47 cm with them.  So you're right that at your size you might have to go smaller - but again, work with someone knowledgeable.  

On compact vs. triple… I don't think there's a consensus.  I have a compact.  Some people have suggested that I should have a triple because I live in a hilly area.  Some people have suggested that I should keep the compact because it covers the same range with less redundancy and WEIGHS LESS than a triple.  Some people are pro-triple because shifting between chain rings requires a smaller jump so you don't drop your chain as often.  Shrug.  I have only ever had a compact double on my bike and feel no compulsion to change it.  I kind of think it's easier to learn to shift correctly, frequently, and avoid cross-chaining with a compact just because it's a little simpler.  The switch between a compact and a triple is not a huge deal and if the bike you liked (color) came with the one you didn't want, you could try asking the bike shop if they'd swap it for you.

I only glanced quickly at the bikes you linked, but they all seem to have pretty entry level components, with 8 and 9 speed cassettes, some Sora, and some that are more entry level than Sora.  Those will be frustrating to shift.  Shimano's components have numbered groups, then Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, Dura-Ace if I remember right.  If you can get into at least Tiagra, that would be better.  Smoother shifting, and I think Tiagra is 10 speed now, which I think would get you compatibility with the higher end groups should you desire piecemeal upgrading in the future.  (That is worth asking about.)  I have 105s for that reason.  At the time, they were the lowest end group that would be upward compatible.

[biomaj5]

Can you guys also recommend a good book or reference website for beginners? I have very limited bike knowledge. I've been googling my little heart out so that I don't sound like a moron (and so it's not as easy for the salesperson to take advantage of me), but I have a lot to learn.

I've been poking around on the forums at beginner triathlete, bicycling.com, and slowtwitch, but that's a lot to sort through.

These are my long-term plans/goals: start training now on the bike to get used to it, etc. I have the Tour de Cure on June 21-my uncle is big into TdC in Tampa, and he's traveling all the way here (OKC) just to do this ride with me, and so I feel obligated to at least do the 30 mile or 62 mile rides because of his travel time. I've wanted a bike for a couple of years now, so I'm not buying it just for the TdC. I've found a couple of duathlons that I could do locally as well, but they range from March to late fall, so I'm not sure when I'll do that. I want to do triathlons, but that will have to wait until at least 2016 (when I graduate), because I just don't have time right now to learn to swim. My long-long-term goal is to perhaps do an ironman by the time I'm 40-45. Assuming that I like duathlons and don't develop some intense hatred of cycling (unlikely), I would like to upgrade my bike in roughly 2016-2017. Most of the plans are loose, but I'm the kid who always has to have some kind of plan in place, kwim?

[Susie]

I did most of my learning talking to people, so unfortunately I don't have any great resource recs. Maybe someone else does. I went to all the bike shops around and talked to them, and everybody explained things a little differently and I got different perspectives, so in the end I felt like I had somewhat of a rounded approach.

When you say you're thinking of upgrading your bike in a couple years, are you thinking "trade it in" upgrade, or "upgrade components"? Those might guide you in different directions now, purchase wise.

A bunch of my friends bought Specialized Dolce's when they were newbie triathletes, and at least 3 that I can think of in my close circle of try friends, traded them in last year for carbon frame Ruby's. I bought the Ruby right off the bat - which was a big plunge at the time, but 3-4 years later I've spent a lot less total on bikes. I also don't have a tri bike -- if you were thinking of getting a tri bike to race on down the line I might be inclined to invest a little less heavily on the road bike (if you have to choose).

[biomaj5]

Feb 21, 2014 12:01:14 GMT -5 Susie said:

I did most of my learning talking to people, so unfortunately I don't have any great resource recs. Maybe someone else does. I went to all the bike shops around and talked to them, and everybody explained things a little differently and I got different perspectives, so in the end I felt like I had somewhat of a rounded approach.

When you say you're thinking of upgrading your bike in a couple years, are you thinking "trade it in" upgrade, or "upgrade components"? Those might guide you in different directions now, purchase wise.

A bunch of my friends bought Specialized Dolce's when they were newbie triathletes, and at least 3 that I can think of in my close circle of try friends, traded them in last year for carbon frame Ruby's. I bought the Ruby right off the bat - which was a big plunge at the time, but 3-4 years later I've spent a lot less total on bikes. I also don't have a tri bike -- if you were thinking of getting a tri bike to race on down the line I might be inclined to invest a little less heavily on the road bike (if you have to choose).

 I only have one cyclist friend, and she lives out of state and can't come help me (gnomesweetgnome). I have one male coworker who is big into cycling, but he's more of a mountain biker, and I've been asking him some questions. He can't come to the shops with me though. I guess I'm a little wary of store people-for example, one of the local running stores here is bad about pushing Newton shoes on everyone. I assume the same sort of thing happens in bike stores as well? I just don't know that I could trust them to give me completely sound advice, rather than something aimed at making me spend more money.

As for upgrading, it does depend on what bike I end up with. If I go with the lowest Trek, then I'll just buy a new bike. If I end up with the $1000 Specialized, then maybe just components. I am going to put the $1200 Specialized Dolce Elite Compact on the table, but it is highly unlikely that I'll buy that one, and my husband will take a lot of convincing, and I'd probably have to claim that as my birthday and Christmas presents for the next 3-5 years. It took a lot of convincing to get him to believe that I can't buy a $200 bike from walmart, so the budget limit is the compromise (what I'd really really like is a hot pink/black specialized ruby). I'm in the middle of making a spreadsheet listing all of the bikes' specs and geometry side-by-side (I have a thing for spreadsheets lol), and then I'm going to make myself a cheat-sheet on components so that I'll be able to figure out what is upgradeable and what I'd have to live with for now.

If I get the discounted trek lexa ST, I would slowly upgrade a few things here and there maybe, and then wait longer to buy a better bike. If I can find last years' models on the Specialized bikes, then I will definitely go for the higher-level bikes. But finding short-kid bikes might be difficult. 

[sadlebred]

Buy what fits, not what is pretty. A pretty bike will go unridden. An ugly bike that fits will be ridden. I second everything Susie said. I have some buying advice in the link below. As for gruppos, I'd look at bikes with Claris over Sora. Claris replaced Sora for 2013 (note that some 2013 bikes will have Sora components). The shifting with Claris is similar to the other Shimano gruppos like 105. Sora uses a different action, which is odd, for shifting.

You will also need to budget for padded cycling shorts and a helmet. A helmet is required, and padded shorts are highly recommended for your backside's comfort.

[sadlebred]

Don't focus on upgrading components! IMO, it's not worth it for a $1000. Buy this bike within your budget and start saving for the next one that you might get in a year or two. Know that when you buy your next bike you can sell this one to help pay for it. A $1000 bike isn't worthy of $2000 in upgrades. You'd be better off buying a new $2000 bike when the time comes.

The ONLY things I'd upgrade on a $1000 bike would be to clipless pedals and a saddle (seat) that I liked. Everything else, use til it dies or wears out.

[biomaj5]

Feb 21, 2014 12:19:37 GMT -5 sadlebred said:

Buy what fits, not what is pretty. A pretty bike will go unridden. An ugly bike that fits will be ridden. I second everything Susie said. I have some buying advice in the link below. As for gruppos, I'd look at bikes with Claris over Sora. Claris replaced Sora for 2013 (note that some 2013 bikes will have Sora components). The shifting with Claris is similar to the other Shimano gruppos like 105. Sora uses a different action, which is odd, for shifting.

You will also need to budget for padded cycling shorts and a helmet. A helmet is required, and padded shorts are highly recommended for your backside's comfort.

I spent some time looking through your link yesterday. I'll write down what you said about Claris vs Sora. I've got the shorts already! I bought them a year ago when I looked at bikes the last time, and then used them for spin since I didn't buy a bike. I also had to convince DH that I do need to buy a helmet at the same time. ::head desk:: His comment was, "well can't you buy the helmet later?" Um, no. I'm not going to take a bike home and let it sit in my second bedroom until I buy a helmet at some random later date. No, I'm going to play around with it immediately, and therefore need a helmet immediately. I'd also like body armor and bubble wrap because I'm pretty sure that I'm going to fall over quite a bit until I figure things out lol. I haven't bought a cycling jersey yet, but that is something that I think could wait a little while until I'm riding longer than 10 miles. That may be 2 weeks from now, or maybe another month, I don't know. I have plenty of dry-fit running shirts/jackets that should work fine for the interim (I hope).

And on another amusing side note, my coworker keeps singing the praises of eggbeater clipless pedals. Yes, I plan to go clipless at some point, but not on day one. lol.

[biomaj5]

Feb 21, 2014 12:22:03 GMT -5 sadlebred said:

Don't focus on upgrading components! IMO, it's not worth it for a $1000. Buy this bike within your budget and start saving for the next one that you might get in a year or two. Know that when you buy your next bike you can sell this one to help pay for it. A $1000 bike isn't worthy of $2000 in upgrades. You'd be better off buying a new $2000 bike when the time comes.

The ONLY things I'd upgrade on a $1000 bike would be to clipless pedals and a saddle (seat) that I liked. Everything else, use til it dies or wears out.

See, I still have so much more to learn. I guess when I said upgrades (re: components), I thought of changing the triple to a compact if necessary, or changing from Claris/Sora/whatever to 105/Ultegra? That didn't seem to be incredibly expensive. My coworker enjoys building bikes from the frame up, so I thought that upgrading things was normal based on things he's said. I'm cool with only changing the pedals and saddle.

[Susie]

Feb 21, 2014 12:33:32 GMT -5 biomaj5 said:

I'm not going to take a bike home and let it sit in my second bedroom until I buy a helmet at some random later date. No, I'm going to play around with it immediately, and therefore need a helmet immediately.

I haven't bought a cycling jersey yet, but that is something that I think could wait a little while until I'm riding longer than 10 miles. That may be 2 weeks from now, or maybe another month, I don't know. I have plenty of dry-fit running shirts/jackets that should work fine for the interim (I hope).

Wise.

I don't think I got a jersey until I was a couple years in, and even now I only have 1.  The pockets are really handy, but it's definitely not a need.  Whereas the helmet, yes, definite need.  At least helmets are pretty cheap in the grand scheme of cycling.  $40 gets you one that works just fine.

[biomaj5]

Feb 21, 2014 12:39:17 GMT -5 Susie said:

Feb 21, 2014 12:33:32 GMT -5 biomaj5 said:

I'm not going to take a bike home and let it sit in my second bedroom until I buy a helmet at some random later date. No, I'm going to play around with it immediately, and therefore need a helmet immediately.

I haven't bought a cycling jersey yet, but that is something that I think could wait a little while until I'm riding longer than 10 miles. That may be 2 weeks from now, or maybe another month, I don't know. I have plenty of dry-fit running shirts/jackets that should work fine for the interim (I hope).

Wise.

I don't think I got a jersey until I was a couple years in, and even now I only have 1.  The pockets are really handy, but it's definitely not a need.  Whereas the helmet, yes, definite need.  At least helmets are pretty cheap in the grand scheme of cycling.  $40 gets you one that works just fine.

Are jerseys something that you only wear on long rides, similar to only wearing a fuel belt for long runs? When I run at the lake, 95% of the cyclists are wearing jerseys, so I thought that it was an every-ride sort of thing. But then again, I only do my long runs out there, so someone could assume that I wear my fuel belt every time I run too. 

[Susie]

Jerseys are an every ride thing if you have one and it's clean(ish). But with tri training I have a lot of clothes that need to do double and triple duty, and I don't want to buy a lot of "cycling" specific (i.e. sleeved) jerseys, on top of sleeveless tri jerseys/tops (I have a couple of those), AND running clothes, and, and, and, you know how it goes.

[archaeominx]

No advice on the actual bike but my local LBS gave me a discount on any additional gear I wanted to get when I bought my bike, so maybe you can score an even better deal on the helmet. (Or at least tell your H that) I have to laugh that he thinks you should wait on that one. Clipless pedals, yes, helmet, hell no!

[sadlebred]

Feb 21, 2014 12:36:18 GMT -5 biomaj5 said:

See, I still have so much more to learn. I guess when I said upgrades (re: components), I thought of changing the triple to a compact if necessary, or changing from Claris/Sora/whatever to 105/Ultegra? That didn't seem to be incredibly expensive. My coworker enjoys building bikes from the frame up, so I thought that upgrading things was normal based on things he's said. I'm cool with only changing the pedals and saddle.

Going from a double (compact) to a tripe requires: A new front shifter, new crankset and chainrings, and a new front derailleur at the very least. Crankset: $200-300, Shifter: $100-150, derailleur: $25-100. It's not cheap.

A new 105 gruppo is $650-900 depending on exactly what you upgraded. Since the Claris and/or Sora isn't compatible with anything else, you would need to toss in the cost of a crankset on top of that for another $200. It's cheaper to save up for a new $2000 that you could buy in a few years. You CAN upgrade anything. Is it worth it? To me it's not putting $1000 worth of new components on a frame that's worth $200.

[sadlebred]

Definitely ask for a discount on anything you buy at the shop at the time you purchase your bike. Most shops will give you 10% at that time if you ask. I'd also buy: spare tube, tire levers, water bottle, water bottle cage, small seat bag, CO2 inflator or minipump. It should all be less than $40-50. Then learn how to use the tire levers, spare tube, and pump.

[valetgirl]

This might go without saying, but go to a LBS that will fit you properly for the bike and not just sell it to you as is. There's a bunch of measurements they should take from you and adjustments they should make to the bike to ensure that it's an ideal fit for you. If you aren't planning to go clipless right away, wear the shoes you will wear when you ride.

[biomaj5]

Feb 21, 2014 14:34:09 GMT -5 valetgirl said:

This might go without saying, but go to a LBS that will fit you properly for the bike and not just sell it to you as is. There's a bunch of measurements they should take from you and adjustments they should make to the bike to ensure that it's an ideal fit for you. If you aren't planning to go clipless right away, wear the shoes you will wear when you ride.

Since I'm only pre-buying shopping tomorrow (we're buying on the 28th), this is something I do once I've actually picked out a bike, yes? Or do I have to have this done and pay for at every bike store I visit tomorrow? 

[valetgirl]

Feb 21, 2014 14:56:34 GMT -5 biomaj5 said:

Feb 21, 2014 14:34:09 GMT -5 valetgirl said:

This might go without saying, but go to a LBS that will fit you properly for the bike and not just sell it to you as is. There's a bunch of measurements they should take from you and adjustments they should make to the bike to ensure that it's an ideal fit for you. If you aren't planning to go clipless right away, wear the shoes you will wear when you ride.

Since I'm only pre-buying shopping tomorrow (we're buying on the 28th), this is something I do once I've actually picked out a bike, yes? Or do I have to have this done and pay for at every bike store I visit tomorrow? 

Only when you purchase.

[biomaj5]

Feb 21, 2014 14:20:54 GMT -5 sadlebred said:

Definitely ask for a discount on anything you buy at the shop at the time you purchase your bike. Most shops will give you 10% at that time if you ask. I'd also buy: spare tube, tire levers, water bottle, water bottle cage, small seat bag, CO2 inflator or minipump. It should all be less than $40-50. Then learn how to use the tire levers, spare tube, and pump.

If they're going to give me a discount, should I buy clip less pedals and cycling shoes now? I've already noticed that the eggbeater pedals are cheaper elsewhere online.

[sadlebred]

Feb 21, 2014 15:49:34 GMT -5 biomaj5 said:

Feb 21, 2014 14:20:54 GMT -5 sadlebred said:

Definitely ask for a discount on anything you buy at the shop at the time you purchase your bike. Most shops will give you 10% at that time if you ask. I'd also buy: spare tube, tire levers, water bottle, water bottle cage, small seat bag, CO2 inflator or minipump. It should all be less than $40-50. Then learn how to use the tire levers, spare tube, and pump.

If they're going to give me a discount, should I buy clip less pedals and cycling shoes now? I've already noticed that the eggbeater pedals are cheaper elsewhere online.

Buy them at the shop. They will often install them for you and help you set up the cleats. You can't get that service from a cheaper catalog.

Be aware, too, that the shop may not have your exact bike and size in stock. They may need to order it.