Oslo/the Fjords, Norway Suggestions

[sugarplum]

My husband and I will spending time in Norway after a work conference and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on places to concentrate on in the Fjords region. We'll only have 3-4 days outside of Oslo, so the best places to stay and eat would be great.

Thanks in advance.

[travelingjen]

I would base yourself out of Bergen. Spend your first day doing the Norway in a Nutshell Tour (http://www.norwaynutshell.com) which will provide your train transportation from Oslo over to Bergen with several stops along the way. Then spend at least a day or two touring Bergen. If you have fourth day you could also head down to Stavanger before flying home.

It's been five years since I visited Norway so I can't help you on any dining recommendations. However, be prepared to spend a lot on eating out. A simple lunch at McDonalds for two adults cost more than $20!

[GilliC]

In Oslo...

Absolutely visit Vigelands Sculpture Park in the middle of Frogner Park. The sculptures celebrate the human form in all walks of life from childhood through old age (be aware that they're all nude if you're sensitive to that kind of thing). The park is free and open 24 hours, so if you're around during long daylight hours it's a good option after the other museums and sights have closed.

There are some great museums on the Bygdøy Peninsula. If you want to see more than one, and you don't have a 7-day transit pass, you might consider buying the 24-hour Oslo Pass for a day over there. The 24-hour transit pass is 75 NOK, so to make the Oslo Pass (270 NOK) worth it, you need to cover 195 NOK of museum entries. Visiting the Folk Museum (100 NOK), the Viking Ships (60), and the Fram (80) and/or Kon-Tiki (70) will do it. If you already have transit covered, the Oslo Pass is only worth it if you're planning a heavy day of museum-hopping.

The Norwegian Folk Museum (also sometimes known as the museum of cultural history in English) is great if you have good weather, because it's a nice place to walk around. There tend to be more demonstrations on weekends, but there's usually a bit going on all summer (less in the winter months). It houses a collection of historic buildings from all over the country, including a rebuilt wooden stave church that's worth visiting.

The Viking Ship Museum is a small museum that houses the archaeological remains of three viking burial ships along with the artifacts recovered from the sites. The historical museum downtown has a more extensive and comprehensive viking exhibit, but last time I visitied there wasn't a lot of English explanation. Also, the ships themselves are iconic.

A lot of people are pleasantly surprised by the Fram Museum, dedicated to Arctic and Antarctic exploration. It's home to the famous Fram polar exploration ship, and displays about past expeditions line the walls. The ship is open to the public, so you can climb inside and imagine what it was like to spend a winter on board with the ship frozen in the ice.

The Kon-Tiki Museum, dedicated to the Kon-Tiki and Thor Heyerdahl's other expeditions, is a fascinating museum if you're interested in Heyerdahl's work and are willing to read all the material. However, you won't get much from a quick walkthrough, so it can feel a bit underwhelming on a packed day. If you have an Oslo Pass, you can take a quick peek inside and decide for yourself.

The Maritime Museum is also down by the Kon-Tiki and Fram, but unless you're a boat fanatic, it's not particularly exciting. If you have an Oslo Pass and stop by at the right time, their panoramic film of the Norwegian Coast is kind of nice. The Ferry #91 runs to Bygdøy from in front of the Rådhus (city hall) and is covered by the normal transit passes and Oslo Pass. The ride across the harbor makes a fun way to get to/from Bygdøy (otherwise catch the bus 30).

Other things to do in Oslo:

The Scream (and the National Gallery) - The National Gallery is home to a large collection of Norwegian artists (mostly Romanticism) and a handful of big international names, but the highlight is obviously Munch's world-famous painting. There are signs pointing the way directly to the room with his work, and the collection of his paintings makes a trip out to the Munch Museum unnecessary for all but the most dedicated Munch fans.

Akershus Fortress grounds - The grounds of the medieval fortress are open to the public during the day and make a pleasant place to walk around. The ramparts offer great views of the Oslofjord. The castle itself is okay, but not particularly exciting.

Opera house - There are also great views from the roof of the opera house, and the novelty of being able to walk right up on top of it are amusingly unique.

Holmenkollen ski jump - I haven't been to the top of the jump since they rebuilt it, but the views from the area alone are great. The view from the top of the old jump was pretty impressive, but I was more taken with the view and the height of the jump than the ski museum itself.

I also like the Nobel Peace Center, which honors all the past Nobel Laureates and houses a rotating humanitarian exhibit. The high-tech displays make a novel presentation for the information about the award winners and the history of the Nobel prize. (If you visit, don't miss the "magic book" telling the story of Nobel's life.)

Dining suggestions:

As mentioned above, food in Oslo costs a small fortune:
hot dog at a convenience store - $5
sandwich from a corner bakery - $9
fast food meal - $13
inexpensive restaurant main dish - $20-25
moderate restaurant main dish - $29-37
expensive restaurant main dish - $41-100
bottle of soda from a grocery - $2.75
bottle of soda from a convenience store - $4.25
soda at a restaurant - $5 (no refills except at a few places like Burger King)
pint of beer - $8-13
glass of wine - $10-20
cocktail - $13-16

Budget:
- Deli de Luca is located all over town and sells some decent sandwiches that they'll heat up for you.
- Tullins cafe north of the palace (across from the Radisson Scandinavian) has fairly low prices.
- In nice weather, buy a one-time grill "engangsgrill" at the grocery along with some hot dogs and lompe (flat bread) and have a picnic like the locals in one of the parks.
- There are some inexpensive Asian restaurants around town. Grønland has plenty, and Rasoi Indian restaurant in the train station is decent and very inexpensive.
- kebab from any of the myriad kebab stands around town

Moderate:
- Lorry, near the northern corner of Slottsparken (the palace park) has some traditional Norwegian dishes, including open-faced sandwiches and reindeer "burgers" (more like large patty-shaped meatballs; not served on a bun).
- Sushi Tokyo on Kirkeveien between Majorstuen T-bane and the main entrance to Vigelands Park is my favorite of the many take-away sushi places (and they have a more seating than most). Salmon is one of the few things that's inexpensive, so if you like salmon sushi, try some of the sushi take-away places.
- Holmenkollen Restaurant has a great view of the city from its location near the Holmenkollen T-bane station. They serve fairly traditional Norwegian dishes at the higher end of the moderate scale.
- The Grunnerlokka neighborhood is home to a number of decent restaurants, including Villa Paradiso for pizza, Delicatessen for tapas, and Food Story for its organic slow-food-esque menu. Nearby, Tim Wendelboe's (World Barista champion) coffee shop is world-famous for its Scandinavian light roasts.

Expensive:
- Alex Sushi is known to be the best sushi place in town. They actually serve whale sushi, which doesn't make a lot of sense to me, since whale is more like beef than fish. But it's been top of the extensive sushi list for years.
- Lofoten Fish Restaurant at Aker Brygge is one of the best choices for seafood. I'd recommend making a reservation on weekends (same-day is usually possible).
- Frognerseteren Restaurant is a classic Norwegian restaurant perched on the hills above the city and is a popular place for taking work visitors. The self-service cafeteria is a more affordable option in the same location.
- There are plenty of restaurant options along the Aker Brygge waterfront. Some are moderate, and some are expensive, but all have their menus posted out front. The new Tjuholvem area on the far side of Aker Brygge houses all kinds of new chic and popular eateries, including branches of some of the city's favorites.
- Maaemo has two Michelin stars. I've never eaten there, but I've heard plenty of good things.

[GilliC]

Beyond Oslo, I agree that the Norway in a Nutshell tour is nice. The train from Oslo to Myrdal often appears on lists of the world's most scenic rail trips, and the Flåmsbana down to the sea is an engineering marvel. The fjord ferry from Flåm to Gudvangen travels through the UNESCO-listed Nærøyfjord. The full trip to Bergen takes a day, and then you can spend a day or two in Bergen.

Depending on what you want to see/do, a day in Bergen is easily enough, but trying to fit in another destination might be rushed. It tends to take a while to get to/from airports in Norway. Depending on your interests, you might consider a daytrip from Bergen or spending an extra day near Flåm or Voss to do some hiking, kayaking, or other outdoor activities.

If this is your first trip to Norway, the highlight should definitely be visiting the famous western fjords, so the Nutshell trip is a good option. The other UNESCO-listed fjord is Geirangerfjord, which the Norwegians generally consider the most beautiful. Another option could be to fly from Oslo to someplace like Alesund and rent a car to visit some of that area. There are ferries through Geirangerfjord and the famous Trollstigen road is nearby. It might also be possible to head down to the Jostedalsbreen glacier or up to the famous Atlantic Road.

A lot of this really depends on what time of year you'll be visiting as the tourist season tends to wind down in mid-August leading to fewer services and reduced hours. And some areas close completely in the winter weather.