Selling my tri bike

[Susie]

I'm planning to sell my tri bike this spring, it's been gathering dust and only a few trainer miles since I bought it in late 2014 and subsequently had babies in 2015 and upcoming in 2019.  With no races on the calendar and no concrete plans for any, I want to keep my road bike and my Surly, both of which I enjoy riding more, and let the tri bike go.

I looked it up on bicycle blue book, which estimates it's worth $716-737 in excellent condition, which I think it's fair to say it is.  I bought on past model year clearance but am the only owner, and I barely rode it outside before getting pregnant the first time -- not a great purchase, lol.

It's a 2013 Trek Speed Concept 7.0 WSD, SRAM Apex 10 speed, size XS (650c wheels), which makes the market pretty small.  I'm planning to post it for sale in my tri club's FB page, although I may wait until closer to spring when people are thinking more about bikes.  

I was thinking of asking $700 initially, does that seem reasonable or too high?  Any other tips on selling?  I'm hoping to sell locally to avoid the whole shipping aspect.

[sadlebred]

I think it sounds pretty fair. I've found BBB gives estimates a little high. Be willing to negotiate if you really want to get rid of it fast and have the lowest amount you'd accept at the back of your mind. I've found most bike buyers will offer about 10-15% less than a bike is listed for. If you can sell it locally without shipping, it's worth taking a slightly lower price. Shipping is a pain...and expensive.

[Susie]

Thanks sadlebred.  I'd be willing to negotiate, obviously I want to get as much as I can for it, but I also know it'll never be worth more than it is now, so the sooner I sell, the better.  It has 105 pedals on it that I could either keep or sell with it, depending on buyer preference.

Someday I'll get back to doing tris seriously enough to warrant having a bike more aero than my Specialized Ruby, but by the time that happens I'd probably rather pick something new (maybe an aero road bike instead of a tri bike) and fitted to my post-babies body, and I'm sure I won't want Apex.  Heaven knows what will be out by then.  So selling this while it still has some value would be an all around win.

[chitownbelle]

Can I hijack your post and ask about tips for buying a used bike? If I was close to you, I'd be interested ;-) I know nothing about bikes, but want to get something to dabble along the bike path and attempt some sprint tris to see if I enjoy the sport. No idea what bike to start with.

Good luck selling!

[wawa]

Jan 17, 2019 13:15:22 GMT -5 chitownbelle said:

Can I hijack your post and ask about tips for buying a used bike? If I was close to you, I'd be interested ;-) I know nothing about bikes, but want to get something to dabble along the bike path and attempt some sprint tris to see if I enjoy the sport. No idea what bike to start with.

Good luck selling!

When I was in your position a few years ago I got an entry level endurance geometry road bike (mine is a specialized dolce sport) and it has served me really well. Comfortable enough for cruising along the bike path, but can handle a Sprint race with ease. You don't want a tri bike now.

Start by figuring out your size at a bike shop and chatting with then about what you're looking for. Bike shop people are awesome and helpful and even if you don't buy the bike there, you'll need a helmet and other accessories so don't feel bad.

[sadlebred]

What wawa said. I'd look at a road bike if you want to ride on the path and do some triathlons. They are more comfortable and more versatile. You can always put a set of aerobars on for a tri.

[Susie]

Yeah, chitownbelle, agree with pp's.  My first "real" bike was my Specialized Ruby, which is an endurance geometry road bike.  It happens to be carbon instead of aluminum but that is not necessary.  It has served me really well, from my first sprint tri through a handful of half ironman races.  It's my bike with the most miles on it, and the one I most miss riding now that I'm pregnant.

[chitownbelle]

Jan 17, 2019 16:09:31 GMT -5 Susie said:

Yeah, chitownbelle , agree with pp's.  My first "real" bike was my Specialized Ruby, which is an endurance geometry road bike.  It happens to be carbon instead of aluminum but that is not necessary.  It has served me really well, from my first sprint tri through a handful of half ironman races.  It's my bike with the most miles on it, and the one I most miss riding now that I'm pregnant.

Great tips ladies.

I've meant to buy a bike for the past few years but had two kids, so pregnancy and new mom/baby phases kept giving me excuses.  Now my littlest is 15mos, so I figure this summer I can get out more, and even take the kids along for some rides.  Would you recommend buying new or used?  Comfort is definitely important right now, so I will look into your rec! 

[wawa]

Jan 17, 2019 20:51:00 GMT -5 chitownbelle said:

Jan 17, 2019 16:09:31 GMT -5 Susie said:

Yeah, chitownbelle , agree with pp's.  My first "real" bike was my Specialized Ruby, which is an endurance geometry road bike.  It happens to be carbon instead of aluminum but that is not necessary.  It has served me really well, from my first sprint tri through a handful of half ironman races.  It's my bike with the most miles on it, and the one I most miss riding now that I'm pregnant.

Great tips ladies.

I've meant to buy a bike for the past few years but had two kids, so pregnancy and new mom/baby phases kept giving me excuses.  Now my littlest is 15mos, so I figure this summer I can get out more, and even take the kids along for some rides.  Would you recommend buying new or used?  Comfort is definitely important right now, so I will look into your rec! 

I bought new because I found the used market overwhelming and could afford a nice enough bike new. Either way you'll want to test ride several bikes because there are slight variations and quirks that can make one bike feel good and another just...not.

But used vs. new really just comes down to your budget mostly. What are you comfortable spending and can you get what you need for that price?

[sadlebred]

What wawa said.

Entry level road bikes start around $750-800. I wouldn't plan to spend less. You'll be happy you spent the extra $100-200. The upgrades are worth it. The next price point will be around $1000-1200, and what you get for that is great. Give us a bit more info., and we can point you in the right direction.

I almost always buy new. I buy nice bikes, ride them til they die (I still ride my 14 year old road bike that I've kept in great shape), and then sell them off or downgrade them to "rain/pub/errand" bike.

[wawa]

As a counterpoint... my besties tri bike and my Mama's road bike are used and they're both very nice. Mama's road bike would have been well over her budget new (carbon, higher end components, nice wheels, came with all the accessories like bottle cages and a seat bag...she just had to buy new pedals. But older.) and she got it for a few hundred bucks.

[chitownbelle]

Jan 17, 2019 21:47:41 GMT -5 sadlebred said:

What wawa said.

Entry level road bikes start around $750-800. I wouldn't plan to spend less. You'll be happy you spent the extra $100-200. The upgrades are worth it. The next price point will be around $1000-1200, and what you get for that is great. Give us a bit more info., and we can point you in the right direction.

I almost always buy new. I buy nice bikes, ride them til they die (I still ride my 14 year old road bike that I've kept in great shape), and then sell them off or downgrade them to "rain/pub/errand" bike.

I thought i'd spend $600-800 to start with.  I just don't want to be that clueless person that walks into a shop and gets taken advantage of, you know?  I have young kids, so I'd either be riding on the weekends alone, or with them in a trailer or wee bike attached to the back for long family bike rides. 

[sadlebred]

Jan 21, 2019 10:19:41 GMT -5 chitownbelle said:

Jan 17, 2019 21:47:41 GMT -5 sadlebred said:

What wawa said.

Entry level road bikes start around $750-800. I wouldn't plan to spend less. You'll be happy you spent the extra $100-200. The upgrades are worth it. The next price point will be around $1000-1200, and what you get for that is great. Give us a bit more info., and we can point you in the right direction.

I almost always buy new. I buy nice bikes, ride them til they die (I still ride my 14 year old road bike that I've kept in great shape), and then sell them off or downgrade them to "rain/pub/errand" bike.

I thought i'd spend $600-800 to start with.  I just don't want to be that clueless person that walks into a shop and gets taken advantage of, you know?  I have young kids, so I'd either be riding on the weekends alone, or with them in a trailer or wee bike attached to the back for long family bike rides. 

I always recommend someone new to cycling go to several local bike shops & try lots of bikes. Do you have a knowledgeable friend that can go with you the first time or two? A good LBS will help you get the right size. They will often do a short fitting to help you adjust the saddle height and other minor things (Not a full fitting, which can run $150-300+). New bikes will come with a manufacturer's warranty and usually a year or two of free adjustments. Again, try lots of bikes. Don't get hung up on brand or "having to have a women's bike." Be open to brands and trying "unisex"/"men's" bikes as well--especially if you are over 5'3". Try tons of bikes (I keep saying this). These will give you some ideas of bikes in your price range...you may even be able to find a previous year's model on clearance. The component packages at this price point will be very similar. Shimano Claris 2x8 (said two by eight)**. Two chain rings and 8 gears on the cassette in the back. Aluminum frames, carbon fork, manufacturer's house brand for a lot things.

Liv Avail 3:
www.liv-cycling.com/us/avail-3

Trek Domane (said Do Mon Ay--the word is French)
www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road-bikes/domane/domane-al/domane-al-2-womens/p/23524/?colorCode=greenlight

Fuji Finest-has a couple of options. Fuji has really good value for the money.
www.fujibikes.com/usa/bikes/road/endurance/finest

**A lot of mountain bikes and gravel bikes these days come with one chainring in the front. This is said as "One By". A bike that is a one by 11 has one chainring with an 11 speed cassette. A bike that is 2x11 has two chainrings and a cassette with 11 speeds (cogs). The "one by" and "two by" terminology started a couple of years ago to distinguish mountain bikes that came with different chainring & cassette configurations. It's now carried over to just about any kind of bike.

[Susie]

Following up on the OP, I listed my bike for $700 with my old tri club yesterday, and I have someone coming over to see it on Thurs!  I will be very happy if I can sell it within a week, to someone in my old club.

sadlebred and others - separately from the bike, do you have a preferred venue to sell bike parts?  If this buyer works out, she doesn't want the pedals (105s) that are on it.  I'd like to sell those, and possibly some other pedals, saddles, and I'm not sure what else is taking up residence in my garage.  I'm not getting out of cycling or anything crazy, but I have more... stuff... than I need for the two bikes I'm keeping.  This stuff is small/shippable, so online is fine.  There's my local Craig's List bike parts page, or...?  any other good options?

[sadlebred]

Susie Would you like me to send you a couple of Facebook groups?

[Susie]

sadlebred, that would be super helpful, thanks.

[sadlebred]

These will start you out. Search around; there are a ton!

www.facebook.com/groups/onlineswap/

www.facebook.com/groups/419733248064354/

www.facebook.com/groups/cyclingbuysell/

www.facebook.com/groups/106942906459763/

www.facebook.com/groups/trinsell/