I got a roof quote this morning, and I'd like any feedback anyone might have on it.
Current roof: 1500 square feet of roof (not of house, which is 950ish), asphalt shingles, single layer, plywood underneath, no venting.
Estimate: $8,700, includes:
-permit pulling and inspections -basic architectural shingles (can upgrade to a fancier line for extra) -TigerPaw underlayment (says he doesn't use felt/tar paper) -New roof flashing at all penetrations, primed and painted to match shingle color -all new, painted gutter flashing -install ridge vent -install high profile hip and ridge caps
Options -soffit venting: smart vent on all eaves = $950 or six low-profile attic vents = $310 (must pick one) -skylight replacement with Velux Venting Deck Mount with flashing kit=$900 -upgrade to Deck Armor underlyament = $264
Does anything sound weird or "off" here. We are in a mild CA climate with a year-round avg. temp in the low 60s. We have freezing temps maybe two mornings per year. I've seen hail once in 8 years and have never seen snow or accumulated ice. We do have "rainy" and "dry" seasons.
Specific questions re: options: 1. The venting I dont' understand at all. He said we have insulation in all the roofing, so "it'll be a tough draw" with any sort of venting to get air from the eaves to the ridge vent. I asked what the point was then, but he insisted we needed to add venting, which sounds right to me. But if we have insulation blocking the draw path, it seems like it's sort of defeating the purpose. But I don't know what our options are other than ripping off all the plywood to install some sort of air gap, and I'm not sure we'd want to pay for that. WDYT?
2. The skylight in the attic is not currently leaking and we see no evidence of past leaking. He said it is improperly installed and flashed and he's surprised it doesn't leak. My inclination would be to leave it until it does leak, but will it be a lot more expensive to do it later rather than just get it done with all the other roofing?
3. Is upgrading to the Deck Armor underlay worth it? He said the Deck Armor is a better product and breathable, but both are good. He didn't really try to sway me either way.
I am no roofing expert. Regarding #1 - if you install soffit vents, the attic insulation should be pulled back from that area. They make baffles that hold the insulation back from the vents and allow the air to flow up past the insulation.
Thanks Wawa. We discussed that, because I have installed the baffles myself when insulating my parents' lake house. However, the attic space is finished, so that would require either undoing all the drywall up there (the thought just makes me want to cry) or tearing off the plywood from the outside, which he didn't recommend. In our vaulted LR ceiling, same story: insulation sandwiched between finished drywall and roofing plywood. He said we should just install the vents and leave the insulation as-is so there is at least some venting, which is better than what we have now. We do have areas where there is no insulation in the unfinished parts (maybe 25% of the house). It's bizarre. Like someone just randomly stuck insulation up there, no rhyme or reason.
The quote seems reasonable - we paid $15,500 for our new roof & insullation (more square footage). Did he give you a price for plywood replacement? A lot of the plywood on the edge of the house was rotten, so we had to have it all replaced. It was like $80/sheet w/labor.
Definitely get a second quote. Check Angie's List for reviews if you haven't already. I would fix the skylight now - those things are notorious for bad installation. Ditto wawa on the venting. It sounds like an odd situation so maybe go for the cheaper option? There are no signs of moisture problems or temperature control issues in that finished attic area right? If so, then you might have a bigger problem. If not, add some venting. A second opinion would be nice on this aspect too.
As far as we know, the lack of venting hasn't caused problems so far. However, that info may change once everything is ripped off and the plywood inspected. He hasn't quoted for replacing plywood, since we have no info about that, but we are both clear that he will replace any rot he finds. I will see if he can give some sort of quote/sheet.
We probably will get another quote. I tried over the last year to get someone out here (called 4 different roofers), but not a single one showed up to quote. This guy is recommended by our very good GC and actually showed up, so he's already head and shoulders above the rest so far...
Thanks Wawa. We discussed that, because I have installed the baffles myself when insulating my parents' lake house. However, the attic space is finished, so that would require either undoing all the drywall up there (the thought just makes me want to cry) or tearing off the plywood from the outside, which he didn't recommend. In our vaulted LR ceiling, same story: insulation sandwiched between finished drywall and roofing plywood. He said we should just install the vents and leave the insulation as-is so there is at least some venting, which is better than what we have now. We do have areas where there is no insulation in the unfinished parts (maybe 25% of the house). It's bizarre. Like someone just randomly stuck insulation up there, no rhyme or reason.
ohhh...ok, I didn't realize you were talking about finished space. That does change things. Hrm.
Attic venting over a vaulted ceiling is a tricky topic. I our home we have one room with a vaulted ceiling and it doesn't have the space completely filled with insulation so there is still a small air gap for the space to vent. We might also consider adding an attractive gable vent when we redo the siding since the vaulted room is at the end of the house. In our climate keeping a small air gap (aka. fully vented) is the most common approach but in your climate a hot roof might be a better option.
2.) As far as the skylight goes could you have him explain in detail why the flashing isn't correct? The flashing should be completely replaced when he re-roofs so unless he's talking about the water barrier not being lapped correctly or the extra shielding they put around skylights it shouldn't need to be removed. I just watched the guys on This Old House install a new skylight this weekend and I was wishing I could video tape it for the next nestie who asked about this! They did a good job explaining every piece that went down.
3.) Nah unless you're trying to go for this extended warranty: www.gaf.com/Roofing/Residential/Products I wouldn't bother. I don't understand how being breathable is a big benefit in your climate or revolutionary for that matter.
Thanks fox. The roofer just seemed to think the skylight was crappy in general, which I coudl believe, since skylights are notorious for being trouble-makers, but I'm thinking "if it ain't broke..."
I'll read that article on venting tonight, thank you!. His proposal seems to be to stick vents on the roof, but they'll be pretty useless because of all the insulation. Does that sound as outrageous to you as it does to me? If we're doing that, I'm wondering what the point of paying for all these vents is.
Well it is much easier to install a new skylight now rather than later but it's really not all that hard with asphalt shingles. Just make sure you buy an extra pack or half pack of shingles for future repairs. If it's a standard size skylight and you'd be replacing it in the same spot then it's not too difficult to replace.
Yeah I would either do a vented or a hot roof. Not both.